Transportation Suggestions Needed for Scouting Trip in December

[Elisabeth Moss]

Hello everyone,
I’m new here, so if these questions have been posed before, please forgive me.
My boyfriend and I are scheduled to fly to Quito on December 4th, and leave Quito on December 31st. We’re on a scouting trip as we hope to move to Ecuador next summer. We currently live in Seattle, so we’re hoping to find a less rainey climate; with warm days (mid to high 70’s) and cool nights. We’re into gardening, so I’m thinking Vilcabamba is our target area.
From December 8th until December 22, we want to go to the north coast, work our way south, go inland to Vilcabamba, and then arrive in Cuenca for the Christmas holiday. From December 27 to December 30th, we want to go north to see Baños and the areas around Cotachi before departing Quito on December 31.
After reading about the crazy drivers in Ecuador, and noticing that it would cost between 1K and 2K to rent a car for the duration of our stay, I’m thinking about alternative methods of transportation. I remember reading that the bus from Quito to the coast (was it Manta or Guayaquil?) was a long 6 hour trip and also somewhat dangerous as far as keeping track of your belongs was concerned. I was thinking of a train to the coast, or hiring a car for at least that stretch of our trip, and using buses or taxis once we’re on the coast. Then there’s the trip back to Vilcabamba etc.
I would appreciate any input/advise you can give me regarding the best/safest way to get between Quito and the northern coast, and from the southern coast to Vilcabamba. Also, how do I hire a car? Are there any companies you would recommend? Any idea of the costs?
If there are places that you recommend we look at, knowing our desire for and excellent gardening climate and safe location, please advise! Thanks in MILLION in advance!
Sincerely,
EMoss

[SUZAN HASKINS]

Hi Elisabeth, the very best thing for you to do is to travel light. Bring only a backpack and you can be more flexible. You will always find a place to do laundry. If you end up taking the bus, you can hold your backpack on your lap or you can stow it in the luggage compartment…but ALWAYS have your passport and electronics on your lap. Plenty of travelers and expats take the buses all the time without problem — just use common sense and remain vigilant. There are plenty of drivers out there, too, if that’s what you decide. Or you can fly to some of these places.

Not sure where you mean by the “north coast” — are you going all the way north to Atacames or are you thinking of Canoa or Manta or somewhere in between? When you say “hire a car” do you mean that you want to rent a car that you would drive or hire a car with a driver? There are plenty of drivers out there, if that’s what you decide but it would be easier for us if you tell us where along the coast you are starting? I have rented cars that I’ve picked up at both the Guayaquil and Manta airports. If that’s what you want to do, look at Kayak.com for reservations.

From Quito, you can also fly… to Esmeraldas if you’re starting in Atacames or Manta if you want to go north or south from there. I’ve had very good luck traveling the coast by taxi. I just ask for a recommendation from wherever I am staying and then negotiate a price. Ask your hostel or hotel host how much it should cost.

In Guayaquil, one driver that’s been recommended (I’ve not used him) is Jorge Lopez. His cell phone # 0989031961 and his website: http://www.ecuavantransportation.com. I am sure he can drive you from Guayaquil up the coast or from there to Cuenca or Vilcabamba. If you fly into the airport at Loja, there are taxi drivers there as well as shared trucks/vans. A driver in Quito is Pablo: pablopradoservicesforexpatsecuad.blogspot.com

Let us know how else we can help?

Let us know how else we can help?

[Elisabeth Moss]

Hello Suzan,
Thank you very much for all of the information! For some reason, I thought I would be notified by email if anyone responded to my question, but I wasn’t.

Unfortunately, my plans have changed. I was reading Expat Blog and discovered the news about this being a “Super” El Nino year. They say it’s not wise to go to the coast as December and January are the height of the event. From what I understand, there are only 2 helicopters to ferry people from the coast inland. Medical supplies and food may be limited.

What I’ve decided is to (starting in Quito) go to Cotacatchi, see the volcano region, tour El Oriente, and then head south to Banos. From there, I want to get to Cuenca and Vilacabamba.
If at that point it looks like weather won’t be a problem on the coast, I will try it.

The only reservations for hotels I have made so far are for the first 4 days in Quito, and from December 23rd to December 26th in Cuenca. If you have any suggestions for a good route to follow, I’m all ears!

I would love to meet with you in Cotacatch if you’re not too busy at the time! I have been planning to come to Ecuador for 4 years now, and hope to move next summer when my boyfriend turns 62 and can collect SS. I can’t wait!!!!

I will check back with this forum soon; anxiously awaiting your reply, or the replies of anyone who can give input! Hotel recommendations are welcome!

Thank you,
EMoss

[Elisabeth Moss]

Hello Everyone,
I just posted this on EXPAT BLOG. If any of “Expert Expats” have any suggestions, I would sure love to hear them!

Hello Everyone,
Since reading of the impending “Super El Niño”, I’ve decided to change my itinerary, and could use YOUR help. Arriving in Quito December 4, leaving Quito December 8, my boyfriend and I will visit the Otalavo Market on Dec. 5, and then hang out in Quito until December 8. Any suggestions of the best places to visit during our stay (I LOVE art and architecture, gardens and photography). Also, any great restaurants for dinner would be nice to know of.
After Quito, we have nothing booked until we go to Cuenca for December 23 to December 26. We have to be back in Quito to fly back to Seattle on December 31st at 1:30 AM (arggg)!
I was thinking that a trip around the volcanoes and a visit to the Amazon would be great. This is a scouting trip to figure out where we want to move to next summer, so I would like to see towns with enough infrastructure to consider living in. We definitely want to see Baños, but other than that, the only other place in the Andes that I have on my list to see are Vilacabamba (for the great gardening) and Cuenca. I’m kind of at a loss here, as I had originally planned to spend the beginning of our trip on the coast. Now, I think we would only go west if the scientists are all wrong and the weather there proves not a problem. That would be at the end of our trip, after leaving Cuenca on December 27. That would only give us 4 days though! Hotels/Restaurants/Art & Garden suggestions welcome!
We were planning to rent a car, but I’m not so sure that’s a good idea after reading about the crazy drivers. We’re not adverse to bus rides if we can get around the countryside. Is there a tour of the Volcano’s and to El Oriente that anyone would recommend?
I’m so glad that I found Ecuador Insider! You guys are SO helpful….thanks for your input in advance!
Sincerely,
EMoss

[SUZAN HASKINS]

Hi Elisabeth, unfortunately, that notification feature doesn’t seem to work, so keep checking back.

In general, for tours I would recommend you contact Julieta Munoz: julieta@nuevomundoexpeditions.com — check out the website and email her if you want a custom tour. Julieta’s company also owns the Manatee Explorer, a live-aboard in the Amazon that is really cool if you have the time.

One Amazon lodge I like for a quick 2- or 3-day trip is Huasquila: http://www.huasquila.com — you could go there and from there, go to Banos. That would be a good use of your time. Do keep an eye on the volcanos, though — both Tungurahua and Cotopaxi are doing some rumbling lately. So far so good, but it’s always good to keep an eye. Both are south of Quito so you’ll have no problems in this regard in either Otavalo/Cotacachi or Cuenca/Vilcabamba.

Seeing your interests, you MUST visit Old Town Quito while you are there. Julieta can arrange a tour for you, as can your hotel. You would also enjoy La Capilla del Hombre — the Oswaldo Guayasamin museum. Not knowing where you are staying, I’ll just throw out some fun restaurants in Quito: Zazu or Alma for an Argentine tasting menu; in La Mariscal: Boca del Lobo (eclectic); Cosa Nostra (great pizza and Italian); Uncle Ho’s (Vietnamese/Thai) and there are two great coffee shops at the corner of Foch and Reina Isabela: Juan Valdez and (can’t remember the name…. they are side by side…). The Coffee Tree in that plaza serves good food, too. And if you are in Old Town, a fab place for an evening vista is the very top outside dining area of Vista Hermosa — stunning views, mediocre food.

I am not sure if we will be in Cotacachi when you visit or not. Dec. 5 is a milestone birthday for me and we may be traveling. Wendy may be available, though — you can check with her at ecuador@internationalliving.com. Not sure if Edd will be in Cuenca when you arrive either since it’s so close to the holidays, but he can be reached at cuenca@internationalliving.com.

Izhcayluna is my fave place to stay and eat in Vilcabamba…

[Elisabeth Moss]

Thank you so much Suzan! Your information has been exceptionally helpful! I think I will contact Julieta about the stay in the Amazon.
We are staying at the Hotel Villa Lafayette in Quito, located at Baquedano E8-11 y 6 de Deciembre from December 4 to December 8th.
On Saturday December 5th we want to go to Otalavo to see the market. Afterward, we would return to Quito to explore until Tuesday. On the the afternoon of the 8th, my boyfriend has a meeting with a branch office manager of his current Seattle employer in Quito, and then we are free to move about the country! We would really love to stay a night or so in the Cotacachi area to view real estate. Is the air clear there, or polluted with ash?
I was looking for hotels in Cotacachi, and found a few, but they are rather expensive.
Can you recommend a hotel there or things to see and do? Since we are real estate scouting, we want to get a feel for the area. This is where you live, right? How many nights would you suggest, and should we stay in Otalavo?
I’m at a loss here, as the Volcano eruptions and El Niño have really had an effect on our plans!
It sounds like we won’t be able to meet up, but I surely do appreciate your assistance with this!
Hope to hear from you soon, and thanks again!
EMoss

[Elisabeth Moss]

Hi Again Suzan,
I just read that the Otalavo Market is open 7 days a week (for some reason I thought it was only open on Saturdays), and that 3 days should give us enough time to see the sights. I assume we would take a bus to Otalavo from Quito. Once there, is there someone you would recommend that knows the real estate market and can act as a driver to show us around? If there is someone you could recommend, would you say that staying in Otalavo would be best (it seems to have less expensive hotels), or should we look at staying in Ibarra or Cotacachi?
If anyone else has any input, please help!
Thank You,
EMoss

[SUZAN HASKINS]

HI Elisabeth, yes the Otavalo market is open every day but Saturday is, by far, the best day. Also, I think you are confusing Cotacachi (the city and canton) with Cotopaxi (the volcano and province). Cotopaxi is south of Quito and Cotacachi is north — in Cotacachi, we do not and will not have issues with ash from Cotopaxi.

Cotacachi is, in fact, just minutes from Otavalo. So if you are going to the market, it might make sense to visit Cotacachi at the same time. There are a couple of budget places to stay in Cotacachi. The most popular seems to be La Cuadra: http://www.lacuadra-hostal.com
Others are Hostel Arbolito and Hostel Kimbala. These are all very inexpensive. If you want to get a feel for Cotacachi, I’d really suggest you stay at one of these. If you stay for a week or more, you might opt to stay in an apartment. I can get you those contacts if your decide to do that.

However, if they’re full, you could also stay in Otavalo at Hostel Dona Esther: http://www.otavalohotel.com (They have a great restaurant there, too.) And if you stay for a week or more in Cotacachi, you might opt to stay in an apartment. I can get you those contacts if your decide to do that.

To check out real estate, check in with Yolanda Santana: http://global.remax.com/AgentProfile.aspx?AgentID=890131006 or Joe Stock (78400@msn.com) at Chantal: http://chantal-realty-ecuador.com

[Elisabeth Moss]

Suzan, You are a doll! If we get a chance to meet, drinks are on me!
I will contact Yolanda and Joe right away, and let you know of exact dates when decided. Happy birthday in advance!
Sincerely,
Elisabeth

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