Visiting Panama's Indigenous Reserves

[COUNTRY EXPERT- JESSICA RAMESCH]

Indigenous Panama

Come to Panama City and you’ll be impressed by the First World comforts…the tall towers of the Financial District…and the trendy restaurants that seem right out of the pages of a New York Zagat Guide. But to see what truly makes Panama unique, a trip out of the city is key. You could go to a beach resort an hour or two away, but if you’re interested in local culture, consider doing something a bit different. Because (though Panama is better known for its beaches and business-friendly policies) this country’s color comes from its rich and fascinating indigenous cultures.

Panama is divided into ten provinces and three comarcas, provincial-level indigenous regions that are autonomously governed by their respective tribes. The comarcas represent over 20% of the land (and more than 10% of the total population lives on them). I regularly visit areas in and near the comarca for the largest group, the Ngöbe-Buglé tribes. They represent over 60% of the country’s current indigenous population, their vast comarca lands abutting the provinces of Bocas del Toro, Chiriquí, and Veraguas.

Bocas del Toro is the best base for a tour into Ngöbe land—by dint of sheer beauty. The province is partly made up of an archipelago of Caribbean islands ringed by white-sand beaches and waters the color of a summer sky. Boat owners and adventurous types: you will want to head to outlying islands and beaches like Isla Popa or Peninsula Valiente. No matter which Ngobe Island you land at, you will be asked for a donation to the tribe–usually about $10 per person.

In Bocas del Toro or any Ngöbe area, items to look for include the bright, colorful gowns called nagua. The sweet, miniature ones for toddlers make excellent gifts, and are usually sold by Ngöbe women at prices starting around $5 to $10. The price will depend on the complexity of the geometric appliqués that can take weeks to make by hand. My favorite Ngöbe crafts are the beaded collars or chaquira, true works of tribal art. The neck pieces (generally ranging from $20 up) feature geometric designs that were historically used by warriors only. Buy one to wear or frame and hang on the wall.

Most of the Emberá-Wounaan tribespeople in Panama populate villages around the Chagres river and in the Darien jungle province, which houses some of the nation’s most beautiful rainforest. Many Emberá strive to maintain ancestral hunting, fishing, and food harvesting customs, and continue to live in traditional elevated huts.

The real trademark of these tribes is the ebony body paint that in the modern world could be referred to as a temporary tattoo. The dye, made from the juice of the jagua fruit, lasts a couple weeks, like the henna used in India. The Emberá were featured earlier this year on an episode of the ultra-popular television show The Bachelor (if you caught it, you saw prospective spouses attempting to give each other these temporary tattoos).

If you visit an Emberá tribe in Panama, they will typically offer to paint your arms. Some designs are solid blocks of painting with small patches of skin left open to show contrast. Others are elaborate patterns of delicate lines drawn with the thin tip of a bamboo stick. Each design has its own meaning and each age group and gender is assigned specific patterns.

The Emberá have done a good job of creating opportunities for tourists to see how they live and thus benefit from tourism dollars. Emberá Drua, a village in the Chagres River valley, is frequented by tourists often, but feels nothing like a tourist trap. The locals have a community-based NGO that helps them preserve their culture and habitat—something about which they are very sincere.

The Wounaan people are famous crafters, and it is believed that they were the original basket weavers and wood carvers of the region. Today most indigenous groups produce versions of their canastas or baskets, as well as carvings of cocobolo, a tropical hardwood. Prices can range from $20 to $100 depending on the size and weave of the basket…some are so tightly woven they will practically hold water!

The Guna (formerly spelled Kuna) are Panama’s best-known indigenous people…and parts of their comarca, Gunayala, are accessible via a short flight (about 45 minutes) from Panama City. Formerly known as San Blas, Gunayala is part coastal mainland, part archipelago…a Caribbean wonderland whose tiny islands are known for their unspoilt beauty. You won’t find any large scale developments or resorts here, just fiercely independent Guna villages and a handful of hotels. Sapibenega The Guna Lodge is my favorite, because the cottages are built over the sea (very romantic) and things like solar energy help the hotel…and the area…stay green. See Sapibenega.com.

The Guna have been leaders in the fight for indigenous rights and preservation of the natural resources on which they depend. So you may be surprised to find just how well they have preserved their traditions, language, and customs. Guna females still wear the customary beaded arm and leg bands, wrapped around and around to create thick, intricately designed cuffs—like functional, movable works of art. They wear heavy gold nose rings (perhaps a reminder that, in Guna culture, the women are more precious than gold). And their clothes…patterned sarongs wrapped around their torsos and appliqué panels across their chests…are intricate and colorful. The appliqué panels are known as molas, and a highly sought-after craft by visitors who want to take home a reminder of this vibrant culture. You can sometimes find them sewn to pillows, purses, and cushions, but I like to buy the panels and use as wall hangings. A mola of basic complexity (the smallest, least expensive ones are typically about a square foot in size) starts at around $15, with the more complex ones selling for $20 to $50. You should haggle if you’re buying more than one.

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