Blissful Mediterranean Living at a Bargain in Turkey

Five years ago, I impulsively booked a one-way ticket from mainland Europe to the “Turkish Riviera,” a stretch of coastline in Turkey’s southwest.

I’d traded my life as a corporate lawyer for life on the road… and as I began writing a novel based in the Mediterranean, I was drawn to Turkey’s low cost and easy path to residency. Though I wasn’t ready to settle down, it made a good base for exploring the rest of Europe.

I chose the town of Kaş as my new home base—sight unseen—based on its location, charm, and seeming authenticity. My leap of faith was richly rewarded…

Kaş, a diminutive Mediterranean seaside town, is one of the most beautiful and welcoming places I’ve ever been. It’s a short ride away from Kaputaş, and only two to three hours from Dalman Airport.

As I write this, I’m enjoying an enviable position from the aptly named Bella Vita, one of my favorite restaurants. It’s located in the center of town with a balcony affording a panoramic view of the main square, the terraced green hillside, the sea, and the old marina.

I close my eyes to appreciate the symphony of sounds: the buzzing motor scooters; the laughter of children running carefree around the piazza; the animated chatter of patrons filling the several cafés along the perimeter.

The energy is palpable… and contagious. These are the sounds of life well lived.

Living Authentically in Kaş, Turkey The nearby town of Kalkan has a greater number of English-speaking expats than Kaş, and is easily accessed via the local bus system. But I enjoy the challenge of Kaş, where Turkish dominates over English, and prices are listed solely in Turkish liras.

I can only exchange pleasantries— and, importantly, order food—in Turkish, but I like the sense of immersion in Kaş.

Although inflation—and increasing numbers of expats—have caused living expenses to rise since I first moved to Kaş, the devalued Turkish lira still makes it affordable… particularly in comparison to the US.

Long-term apartment rentals generally range from $450 for a studio to $750 for a two-bedroom. Most apartments are centrally located, or within a short bus ride or 30-minute walk from the center of town. Villas along Kaş’ peninsula are much pricier, but spacious with stunning views and pools.

Life in Kaş centers around the main piazza, where locals, tourists, and expats mingle at cafés and chat in Russian, Ukrainian, English, and Turkish. (The expat community here is largely Russian and Ukrainian, while British and American tourists tend to trickle over from Kalkan.) I’m always impressed by the diversity of people here as I wander the ramshackle cobblestone streets.

Beyond the piazza, Kaş has two marinas, world-class diving, and renowned hiking trails along the ancient Lycian Way. There are several beaches of varying sizes in town, some equipped with resort-style services, and others providing a secluded experience.

Coastal walks are my favorite pastime here. There are many paths to follow, all with varied—but equally incomparable— vistas of the Turquoise Coast’s steep hillsides.

For history buffs, Kaş is a gem. Founded upon the ancient city of Antiphellos, it’s been occupied since the Stone Age and offers Lycian sarcophagi and ancient tombs to explore. There’s an amphitheater, too, dating to the first century BC… although today, locals use it for morning yoga and panoramic sunsets rather than gladiator fights.

Nearby Patara offers several well-preserved ruins (including a temple where oracles prophesized), plus an 18-kilometer beach… which makes for a sandy escape from the pebbles that characterize Kaş’in-town beaches.

And those looking for relaxation and rejuvenation can take advantage of the numerous stylish beach clubs or handful of spas with world-class treatments. The Turkish hammam experience originated as a spiritually cleansing ritual, but now it can be enjoyed by any adventurous individual… and those who withstand the deep scrub will emerge with baby-soft skin.

The experience, which is generally communal and single-sex, includes a sauna, steam, full-body exfoliating scrub, and massage… and will cost about $30 wherever you choose to enjoy it.

If you want to splurge, I recommend Spa Marinkas at the marina.

Eating Well… and in Good Company

The temperate year-round climate, which rarely drops below 50 F, allows the weekly farmer’s market to take up the town center all year long. It’s equal parts shopping and socializing.

I never feel more local than when I am warmly greeted by the vendors I frequent. They know my purchases by now… and offer me compliments on my loose grasp of Turkish.

Stands overflow with vibrant seasonal vegetables and fruits—including a rainbow of olives—and local cheeses. I always pick up beyaz peynir (white cheese), with a feta-like taste and texture, and dil peyniri (string cheese), delicately made from cow’s milk.

Fresh olive oil, various homemade jams, tahini, pomegranate molasses, pistachios, almonds, walnuts, fresh dates, and dried apricots and figs are also standard fare. Every imaginable spice is on display perfuming the air.

Locals and tourists gather to eat freshly prepared gözleme, a type of Turkish pancake stuffed with a variety of options from simple cheese and spinach to eggplant and lamb. While black tea in diminutive tulip-shaped cups is ubiquitous, freshly squeezed pomegranate and carrot juice are healthy favorites as well.

While the market offers an enticing array of food options, there are also stalls with kitchenware, athletic wear, and the famous Turkish towels and linens. Despite inflation, grocery staples are still much less expensive than in the US.

Most meals are cooked at family-owned businesses. In Kaş, I often find myself in one of several traditional meyhanes: taverna-style restaurants where meals are multiple courses, company is savored, and the national liquor, raki, is liberally sipped.

Other favorites: Maşuk for creative and expertly-prepared seafood dishes as well as delectable mezes, or starters; Ehl-i Keyf with classic Turkish fare, including fragrant spiced kebabs; L’Apéro, which offers an inventive mix of French and Turkish cuisine as well as an impressive wine list; and, of course, Bella Vita for sumptuous grilled seafood and Italian classics. Prices for starters and entrées generally range from approximately $3 to $10, and $10 to $20, respectively.

There are also tasty, quick, and inexpensive options, including döner kebabs and many varieties of Turkish-style pizzas (e.g., lahmacun flatbreads with nuts and pomegranate glaze) for around $5 or less.

One of my favorite pastimes is practicing my fledgling Turkish with Ili, the affable owner of Maşuk, who graciously invites me into his kitchen and compliments my attempts while I watch him prepare my luxurious yet healthy dinner.

After dinner, he performs a “coffee reading” of my future, a ritual I had never before experienced… though apparently it’s an ancient one, not unlike that of reading tea leaves. He interprets symbols formed by the thick Turkish coffee… and fortunately, his “predictions” are always positive.

I inevitably smile as I leave, clutching the generous bouquet of fresh herbs he gifts me. Perhaps this is why I feel so at home in Turkey: I’m always embraced by the communal hospitality. I don’t feel like a foreigner.

When I consider the downsides of living in Turkey, I’m hard-pressed to find any. There are some cultural differences between here and the US… I have to admit that I still miss Thanksgiving and Christmas.

But for the most part, Turkish culture, characterized by genuine warmth, hospitality, and civility, syncs with my values. It’s a lifestyle saturated in unassuming joys.

And living out of my comfort zone fills me with a novel sense of self-confidence.