Bloodshed and Baklava on Greece’s “Isle of Knights”

I’m lost. But under the warm Grecian sun, I don’t really care.

I walk past a series of iconic olive trees and stop to admire the gentle green foliage and abundant ripening fruit.

As I continue on, large traditional white Greek houses line the road, the gardens bursting and chaotic, as if the seeds were randomly dropped by birds. These gardens reflect the greater Greek landscape—untamed, yet also majestic.

I’m on Rhodes, one of the larger Greek islands in the Aegean Sea, bathing in glorious year-round sunshine. Rhodes doesn’t get all the buzz that Insta-trendy Mykonos and Santorini get… and it’s one of the reasons I chose to visit.

I was expecting a similar experience to Athens… that I’d portal back to an ancient time and civilization. What I got was an entirely different type of time travel…

As I continued walking, my hands still uncomfortably sticky from the creamiest baklava-flavored ice cream I’ve ever had, I hit upon a gated wall about 20 feet tall. There was a deep moat before the arched gate and a stone bridge to cross over to it. Above the stone archway was a coat of arms, half crumbling with fatigue and age, but it still carried an air of the divine.

I was at St John’s Gate, otherwise known as the Red Gate, because it’s said to have been stained with the blood of the Greeks during the 1522 Siege of Rhodes, when the island fell to the Ottomans.

Rhodes carries a legacy of intrigue and diversity, as it holds the indelible marks of other civilizations—their mythology, monuments, and cultural heritage. The Old Town, a medieval city and fortification, was built by the Order of Knights of the Hospital of St. John, an early Catholic military group founded in 11th-century Jerusalem.

Today, it’s a fairytale city with Classical, Ottoman, and Italian influences. Surrounded by medieval walls, it’s also one of the oldest inhabited cities in Europe. As I walked through the Gate of St John, the back entrance to the town, I discovered a labyrinth of cobblestone alleyways lined with buildings and homes with shared walls, stone archways, and narrow staircases.

The centerpiece of the Old Town is Ippokratous Square—a traditional medieval town square alive with tourists from the many cruise ships in Akandia Port. You could easily imagine the bustle of the square in the 13th century.

Large plane trees give the square much-needed shade from the hot sun. Stray cats and kittens frolic under them too (thanks to local women who leave food out for them).

It’s also packed with shops selling tourist wares (handbags, windchimes, magnets, and tea towels) as well as tavernas and ice-cream shops. I also found beautiful ceramics, like plates and bowls priced around $20 with striking blue and white designs. I bought two Italian linen dresses for $60 each—perfect for the hot, Greek summer weather.

I decided to make a pit stop at a small taverna in the square with bright red chairs and umbrellas. My grilled octopus was tender and sweet at $7, but my favorite dish was a simple, fresh Greek salad for $5. It had fresh tomatoes that tasted like the 1970s, when food was packed with flavor from nature… and a delicious helping of crumbling feta cheese on top.

Ambling down the cobblestone pathways, I discovered an archway into a courtyard that housed an ancient, smiling stone lion begging for some attention—it was the Archaeological Museum of Rhodes.

Originally, this majestic building was a hospital run by the Order of the Knights of St John, where the Knights cared for sick pilgrims traveling to or from the Holy Land. The entry fee of $6 didn’t seem to be enough for the treasures within these old stone walls. Ancient pottery, Mycenaean jewelry, tombstones, and ancient mosaics made up the classical mix.

My favorite piece was a 1st-century alabaster statue of Aphrodite playing with her long hair. But the museum is also home to another famous statue, the headless Kouros, (Greek for “youth”), from the 6th century BC.

The Palace of the Grand Masters of Rhodes is also within Old Town and is connected to the Archeological Museum by the Street of the Knights. Once the personal residences of the Grand Masters of the Knights of St. John, it’s filled with ancient statues, medieval paintings, and has displays of 16th- and 17th-century clothing and furniture. The palace has a total of 158 rooms, but only 24 are open to the public. This building was also used as a holiday residence by Mussolini.

As this was an impromptu visit to Rhodes, accommodations were limited, but I managed to find a last-minute opening for my mother and me at the 7 Palms Hotel Apartments, about a mile outside of Old Town. The apartment was simple but clean, and at $66 a night, it was very affordable. I loved chatting with Domy, the hotel manager, who was a historian and full of useful tips and information.

On her recommendation, we set off on a private bus to the fishing village of Lindos to climb its clifftop acropolis. Although there was a public bus service (which costs about $5.50 and takes two hours), we chose to pay $28 for the hour-long drive in an air-conditioned coach.

From town, it’s about a 30-minute hike up to the Acropolis of Lindos, but it’s worth the effort and the $12 entry fee. The hike begins in a complex white maze of clean, white buildings that reminded me of a Dr. Seuss book. There was a delightful wonkiness to these structures offering souvenirs or shaded seats for a meal. Although the rooftop tavernas looked appealing (many of the houses here have flat roofs), our sights were set on conquering the acropolis, admiring ancient ruins, and then hitting the beach.

From its lofty position above the town, the acropolis envelops the ancient Athena Lindia Temple, built around 300 BC. The ancient columns from the temple hold wonderous views of an endless blue sky and cobalt sea. I wondered if Alexander the Great once stood in the exact same spot, enjoying the views while looking out for enemy ships.

The citadel itself has been built and rebuilt over the centuries, and the majority of the remains here today are relics of the Knights of St. John. At a lower level than the temple, you’ll find the roofless remains of a 14th-century Knights of St. John castle. At one time, there were four lookout towers, but today only two are still standing. The walls of the castle follow the contours of the cliff face and give sweeping views of the Mediterranean Sea below.

On the walk back down into the town, we took the time to admire the small shops selling Greek linen with crocheted lace, starting at $30 a piece for a table runner.

After all that exploring, it was time for some sustenance. We stopped for a seafood lunch at the famous Restaurant Mavrikos (Sophia Loren and Barbra Streisand have dined here). Each dish was filled with simple flavors and fresh ingredients. My grilled octopus was tender with hints of lemon. The $17.50 I paid for it felt like a bargain, considering the wonderful flavors and peaceful atmosphere of the cobbled courtyard.

After lunch, there was just enough time to saunter down to Lindos Beach. This is a busy beach with lots of tourists, but there was room to throw a sarong on the sand (you can hire sun loungers, they range from $15 to $80 for the day) and dive into picture-postcard azure water. Staring at the old fortifications from the water was magical, as were the silver fish darting around my body in the gentle clear water. It really felt like an Old World paradise.