buenos aires offers
Buenos Aires offers a unique blend of cultures and affordable costs for big-city living.
©NICOLASMCCOMBER/iSTOCK

With its neoclassical and art nouveau architecture, renowned museums, and world-class culinary and fashion scenes, Buenos Aires earns its moniker as “The Paris of South America.”

But as the capital of Argentina, a country beset with political instability and out-of-control inflation, many have asked why I’d choose to live here.

What they don’t realize is Argentina’s economic troubles are an incredible advantage for anyone earning a living in the U.S., thanks to the “Blue Dollar”—a currency exchange system that allows you to double or even triple your spending power.

Argentina is also very safe—there’s a big police presence, especially in the tourist areas, and little more than petty crime. You can enjoy the vibrant night life in Buenos Aires and feel safe walking home at 2 a.m.

More bookstores per capita than any other city.

I visited Buenos Aires on a tour of the region years ago, and it was the only destination that made me feel really alive. From the romantic blend of Latin American and European cultures… to the entertainment and literary scenes that rival any in the Western Hemisphere (there are more bookstores per capita than any other city in the world)… there’s plenty to fall in love with.

Obtaining a permanent residence visa in Argentina isn’t an easy process. But a tourist visa can be renewed an infinite number of times by visiting another country every three months.

If you’re considering a long-term stay in this remarkable city, here are some useful tips and tricks…

Apartment Hunting

I booked an Airbnb for my first six weeks in Buenos Aires, assuming it would give me more than enough time to locate an apartment and move in. But finding an apartment in Buenos Aires can be challenging.

One of the websites I used in my search was Argenprop.com (similar to Apartments.com). I looked through the areas of the city that interested me, wrote down all the apartments available, then went on long walks around the neighborhoods to make sure I liked what I saw.

After identifying a dozen or so apartments, I sent emails to each listing. None of them responded. A local eventually told me nobody replies to emails—it’s better to instead contact the real estate agents via WhatsApp. This proved to be sound advice.

Eventually, I located an apartment a week before my Airbnb move-out date and paid a reservation fee to secure it. I stopped into the real estate agent’s office and signed an agreement stating I would pay one month of rent, a one month security deposit, and one month’s worth of “fees,” which would go to the real estate agency. The day after signing the agreement, they contacted me to say they now required two months’ worth of security deposits.

This, as I’ve been informed, is commonly known as “gringo gouging.” I refused to pay, collected my reservation fee (they have to return it by law), and, thankfully, secured another apartment a few days later.

In the end, I rented a fully furnished apartment with all utilities, Wi-Fi, and cable included for around $350 a month.

A New Orleans-Meets-South America Vibe

My apartment is located in the Palermo district, an excellent location with cobblestone avenues and a New Orleans-meets-South America vibe. The return of spring brings green-lined streets, while the bike lanes make it simple to explore on one of the ride-share bicycles or a scooter.

There’s a fully stocked grocery store a half-mile away from my apartment, and for smaller purchases, there are four convenience stores and kiosks (think miniature 7-11s) that sell candies, beverages, sandwiches, and sometimes Argentinian hotdogs called panchos. Fruit stands, several pizza shops, and two pet stores are also within a few minutes’ walk of my home.

Down the street are three cafés and restaurants, all over 100 years old and still running strong, plus two breweries and several small performance theaters. If you’re in the neighborhood, check out Cantina Pierino for great Italian food and grab a craft beer at La Birreria Almagro.

Of course, all of this isn’t unique to my block. Most neighborhoods in town have their own collection of charming restaurants with exposed brick, chalk-written daily menus, and recipes passed down for generations. It’s possible to live a full Buenos Aires life without ever walking more than a few blocks from your apartment.

each neighborhood in buenos
Each neighborhood in Buenos Aires has its own character and charm.
©COOPERMOISSE iSTOCK

Everything here is super affordable, especially when purchasing with the blue-dollar conversion rate. Prices are in constant flux due to the hefty inflation rate (inflation hit a record high of 98% in 2022), but on my most recent grocery store run, I bought 30 eggs for about $2.50, two pounds of ground beef for $2.25, a 2-liter bottle of Crush Pomelo by Coca-Cola (similar to Orange Crush soda, but with grapefruit) for 40 cents, and five pounds of dog food for $4.

My monthly cell phone bill is less than $4. That includes all my social media access plus 2 GB of other data. If you connect to Wi-Fi at home and at local establishments, it’s very easy to avoid going over this.

My phone bill, with 2GB of data, is $4 a month.

If you want to use your current cell phone, you’ll just need to get a new SIM card for it. Stop by a kiosk and ask for a phone SIM card (the company I use is Moviestar). They’ll give you a SIM card with instructions on setting it up. It’s help-ful to have a Spanish speaker with you to assist in this, but if you can’t figure it out, you can go to a local shopping mall and have an employee at the official service provider help you.

To maximize your savings, you need to buy everything in cash. It’s the only way to obtain the blue-market conversion rate. And most stores offer a cash discount. In fact, the only thing I buy with a credit card is my gym membership. I pay around $22 to SmartFit, which is the Latin American equivalent of Planet Fitness.

Day-to-Day Living Tips

Several Facebook groups have proven incredibly helpful in my time here. Buenos Aires Expat Hub is a fantastic destination for all kinds of information, ranging from immigration legal advice to tracking down the best dermatologist.

You can double your money using the Blue Rate.

These groups are also great to use before you arrive to learn what to bring, or what might not be available in Argentina. If you love Mountain Dew, for example, I’m sorry to report you can’t get it here. And name-brand clothing is more expensive. Locally produced clothing isn’t terribly priced, but if you burn through Nike sneakers, love your Lululemon pants, or there’s a boutique skincare company you can’t live without, you’d better buy in bulk before traveling.

Foodies Buenos Aires is my favorite group, as it suggests all kinds of great restaurants, not to mention it is the best group I’ve come across to connect people thanks to the events it hosts.

Last, Buenos Aires Classifieds is a solid option for locating apartments. These are all updated listings, so you can skip the hassle of contacting individual real estate agents.

GETTING THE BLUE RATE

Attempting to explain the financial situation in Argentina would be like summarizing a Ph.D. thesis on a fortune cookie, but for travel and living purposes, focus on the blue-dollar rate or “Blue Rate.”

Several decades ago, Argentina heavily devalued its currency to make repaying foreign debts easier. When this happened, locals began pooling their money into the U.S. dollar. This pushed the value of the peso down even further. To prevent this, the Blue Rate was created, which doubles the amount of pesos required to obtain a dollar (and when you have dollars, you can exchange them for double the amount of pesos).

The Blue Rate is more attached to what’s going on in the Argentinian government and national market trends than anything else, so when there’s a major economic shakeup, the Blue Rate jumps higher. In simple terms, you can double your money using this rate versus traditional money transfers through a bank or ATM.

There are two ways to secure the Blue Rate. One is to exchange U.S. dollars for pesos at local exchange locations and the other is to transfer money to yourself.

There are Blue Dollar money exchange locations on Florida Street in Buenos Aires. You’ll secure a better rate if you have hundred-dollar bills. (I’m not a big fan of this, because it means you’re walking into a very crowded area of the city and leaving with more money in your pocket than what many people make in a month.) But in a pinch, it’s a good idea to stockpile a few hundreddollar bills.

In Argentina, Western Union is one of your best friends. It often gives the best blue dollar exchange rate anywhere. It’s a breeze to set up an account, and you can wire yourself (in U.S. dollars) and pick the money up (in pesos) at a physical location.

My suggestion is to visit an o™cial Western Union location in the city and not one of the satellite shops (the o™cial locations look like large banks painted in yellow) and stop by midweek, or Tuesday through Thursday in the morning. These locations are packed on Friday and Monday and will even run out of money.

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