Each month, we bring you recommendations, odd notes, and useful tools to help you better navigate an interesting world.

Visit the Crystal City in Hidden Tuscany

EXPERIENCES

colle val delsa is known as a gateway
Colle Val d’Elsa is known as a gateway to Tuscany—but it holds a special allure of its own.
©STEVANZZ/iSTOCK

Though it’s nestled in the heart of Tuscany, Colle Val d’Elsa’s biggest draw isn’t wine. Instead, those in the know flock here for glassblowing.

This small but sophisticated village is nicknamed “Crystal City,” and boasts a history of crystal production dating back to the 1300s. The Crystal Museum is located underground in a one-time crystal furnace, and includes crystal champion’s cups, crystal movie props, and even a sensory “crystal forest” of mirrors, crystal columns, and wind chimes. (Tickets are €8, but check the website for latest updates; several exhibits have been moved while the museum undergoes renovation.)

Plus, on the first Sunday of each month, you can watch an open-air glassblowing demonstration in Colle’s main square. You’ll find various crystal shops, too; one of my favorite stops was the Cristallo d’Arte Di Mario Belli, where I met the manufacturer’s “glass master.”

If glassworks aren’t your thing, Colle also has weekly farmers markets, artisanal bakeries, ceramics workshops, an archaeological museum, an art museum, and even a Pinocchio museum. (It’s said that the author of Pinocchio created his fictional puppet here.)

Accommodation in the historical center ranges from luxury boutique hotels (I recommend Hotel Palazzo San Lorenzo & Spa, with wellness and breakfast packages for two starting around €200 a night) to chic bed and breakfasts and Airbnbs (I’ve enjoyed Arnolfo B & B, where double rooms start at €75 a night). That’s far more affordable than neighboring Tuscan towns; Siena’s offerings are usually 50% more.

Colle is less than a 15-mile scenic drive from the charming Castellina vineyards, a gateway to the famous Chianti wine region, as well as the hilltop gem of San Gimignano, known for its award-winning white wines.

If you’re interested in customized tours of the area or private airport transfers, you can’t go wrong with the personable English-speaking services of chiantitaxi.com. — Sophia Elan

PLACES

Of the Philippines’ 7,600 Islands, This is My Favorite

The island of Palawan is only a one-hour flight from Manila, but getting there puts you in another world—a world of water, that is.

Of the Philippines’ thousands of islands, Palawan is a favorite among water-lovers in the know, whether divers, snorkelers, scuba divers, or just plain beachgoers. The pristine, azure waters and fine sand beaches go on as far as the eye can see.

On a recent trip, my wife and I spent half our time in Puerto Princesa, the largest city in the heart of the long, narrow island. We found it underwhelming since it was landlocked, so we opted to shuttle north to El Nido, a walkable city surrounded by magnificent cliffs—and home to undoubtedly the best diving spot on the island, thanks to its coral reefs.

From El Nido Harbor, there are several pre-packaged island-hopping tours available for $25–$30. For divers, my recommendation is the island of Coron, just under a four-hour ferry ride from El Nido. This island is a mecca for wreck divers; during WWII, some 24 ships were sunk here.

We chose to stay on Palawan for the most part, renting snorkel masks for $2 and beach-hopping on cheap scooters ($5 a day). Our favorite find—possibly of all time—was Nacpan Beach, which we returned to twice in two days. We spotted islands right off the shoreline and spent our time splashing in the surf.

Best of all, there’s shade available—a welcome respite on these tropical islands—plus a selection of eateries. Truly heavenly.

We ended our trip by canoeing in Puerto Princesa River National Park, home to a spectacular underground river. Its limestone stalactites are a spelunker’s fantasy, and we stayed here for hours.

If watersports are your recreation of choice, Palawan is the place to be.—Norm Bour

EXPERIENCES

The Costa Rican Jungle Can Also Be Your Pharmacy

costa rica is home to 5 of the worlds biodiversity
Costa Rica is home to 5% of the world’s biodiversity—including plants that double as medicine.
©CAROLINE BRUNDLE BUGGE/iSTOCK

The pace of life in Costa Rica, home to one of the world’s rare Blue Zones, invokes rejuvenation and longevity. I recently immersed myself in the healing plants of Costa Rica under the guidance of Aya Natan, the passionate soul behind Cura Sana.

Since moving to Costa Rica in 2010, Aya has been developing medicines and lotions from the heart of the jungle, collecting leaves, barks, and roots to use in her products—and she’ll teach you how to identify and use medicinal plants, too, in her workshop.

The first part of her workshop often involves a hike in the jungle—”a reminder of how much wisdom we can access in nature.” During our hike, she explained how to identify different plants, like the soursop leaf which reduces inflammation and improves liver health. I also learned that neem has antifungal and antibacterial properties, while turmeric is anti-inflammatory and full of antioxidants.

For the second part of the workshop, we dove into making medicinal remedies. To create a tincture, I put the plants I’d collected in the jungle into alcohol, and Anya instructed me to let the bottle sit for a month before using the tincture orally. We also made a lip balm by dissolving beeswax and adding essential oils.

I found the experience empowering, and I’m now growing hibiscus and moringa to make my own teas.

One of my fellow workshop participants made a medicine with neem that relieved her husband’s indigestion, something he’d struggled with his entire life.

Another participant brought her boys to the workshop. They now reach eagerly for her home remedies at the first sign of a cold.

Aya sells her natural products online and at workshops, retreats, pop-ups, local stores, and weekly ferias (local outdoor markets).

Find out more about Aya’s events to learn how to make your own natural remedies. —Bekah Bottone

GREECE’S GOLDEN VISA GETS AN OVERHAUL

greeces golden visa gets an overhaul
©IAN WOOLCOCK/iSTOCK

Well, one of my predictions for 2024 has already been torched.

I thought that—after the many changes to Golden Visa policies in 2023—most European countries would leave things alone.

But the Greek government announced it would raise the threshold for Golden Visa real estate investments in the most desirable areas to €800,000, up from €500,000. (The minimum investment outside big cities and the most popular islands stays at €250,000.)

As in Portugal, golden visas have driven up housing costs in Greece, making it difficult for locals to afford homes. Foreign buyers account for 80% to 85% of all property purchases in Greece.

Greece’s announcement did confirm my overall read of the global investment migration environment. Residency via investment in residential property—adopted by governments as a short-term way to get cash after the 2008 crisis—has run its course.

Instead of welcoming immigrants on the basis of one-off investments in housing, governments prefer foreigners who will bring in a steady stream of income.

For North Americans looking to acquire long-term residency abroad, the message is clear. Make your property investment as soon as possible to avoid price rises—or plan to go the “independent means” visa route.—Ted Baumann

FESTIVALS

Walk With a Goddess in the Mexican Caribbean

in cozumel youll spot murals of ixchel
In Cozumel, you’ll spot murals of Ixchel like above.
©Bel Woodhouse

You’ll find a goddess on the isles of the Mexican Caribbean.

In Maya mythos, Ixchel is the wife of the sun god Ak Kin and is herself the goddess of the moon, fertility, love, childbirth, healing, and medicine. On the islands in the Riviera Maya, you’ll find Ixchel celebrated in street art and statues—depicted as an old woman pouring water with a snake on her head, or a young maiden. In Cozumel, you’ll even spot a sacbé (Mayan for “white road”) leading to her temple within the San Gervasio ruins.

Each May, she’s celebrated with the travesía sagrada maya (sacred Maya crossing). Mayas spend a day canoeing from Cancún across the strait to Cozumel to pay homage to Ixchel—just as their ancestors did 500 years ago. This May, Cozumel’s Pueblo del Maíz (the Maya Cultural Center) is also hosting the caminata a Ixchel (trek to Ixchel). This two-hour walk, starting at Playa Casitas in downtown San Miguel de Cozumel and ending at Pueblo del Maíz, is free for the community to join. Expect English-speaking guides in full feathered headdresses and painted Maya dancers along your journey. At the end of it, in Pueblo del Maíz, trekkers will enjoy an artisanal market offering local artwork, jewelry, and textiles, as well as locally-made traditional bites. (I recommend famous Yucatán dishes like cochinita pibil, slow-roasted pork in banana leaves.) The event is free—and a wonderful way to experience the local culture, traditions, and vibrant community of Cozumel. —Bel Woodhouse

BUEN PROVECHO

Celebrate Easter Like a Spaniard with This Torrijas Recipe

celebrate easter like a spaniard with this torrijas recipe
©IAKOV FILIMONOV/iSTOCK

During the semana santa, or week leading up to Easter, tables in every Spanish home are adorned with paella or roast lamb. But the most coveted recipe of the season is the sugary treat called torrijas.

Modeled after American French Toast, French-French Toast (pain perdu), and even Roman French toast (Rome boasts the claim to the egg-dipped bread creation), Spanish torrijas are more or less… French toast. But if you ask a Spaniard, they’re so much more than that.

The gooey, custard-like bread is drenched in cinnamon and sugar and, during the caramelization process, takes on an almost brandy-like essence. Think the pan sauce in a good flan.

In addition to indulging in torrijas, during semana santa, drummers and pilgrims will process to local holy sites in each town.

Many Spaniards will also dress in single-color robes with pointed hoods, each color signifying religious organization. These men and women, called Nazarenes or Cofradias, peacefully parade throughout the week leading up to Easter Sunday.

To partake in one of Spain’s most beloved—and accessible—semana santa traditions, enjoy making this easy Easter recipe at home.

Torrijas Recipe

Prep Time: 5 min
Cook Time: 10 min

Provided by my Spanish mother-in-law, this recipe, as most European family recipes go, is very loose—use your eyes and your gut as a guide. Un poco de esto, un poco de eso—a little of this, a little of that. Adjust the recipe as it suits your tastes.

Ingredients:

  • Stale bread loaf/baguette (Cuban or French is best), cut into one-inch cubes
  • ½ gallon of milk
  • 3 tbsp cinnamon
  • 2 eggs
  • 2 cups of sugar
  • 2 tbsp oil for cooking (n my household, we always use extra virgin, but any oil should do)

To Make:

  1. Mix milk and 1 tbsp cinnamon in a large bowl and set aside.
  2. In a separate small bowl, beat two whole eggs and set aside.
  3. Then, mix sugar and 2 tbsp cinnamon (to taste) in a deep plate or shallow bowl. Set aside for step 6.
  4. Dip the slices of bread until moist in the milk with cinnamon.
  5. Next, dip slices in the egg bowl.
  6. Lastly, drizzle oil on a large frying pan and fry until golden brown. As the slices come off the pan, coat them in the sugar and cinnamon mixture (step 3) and set aside to eat. Torrijas can be served cold or hot, and kept for up to three days. —Maria DiCicco
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