Each month, we bring you recommendations, odd notes, and useful tools to help you better navigate an interesting world.

EAT, DRINK, STAY

Pink Praline Cocktails at the Best Hotel Bar in the World

on the banks of the rhone river the hotel dieu and its famous dome dominate lyons skyline
On the banks of the Rhône River, the Hotel Dieu and its famous dome dominate Lyon’s skyline.
©ALPHOTOGRAPHIC/iSTOCK

In the waiting area of one of France’s most captivating bars, I shifted from side-to-side, eager to be seated in a cozy alcove. Around the room, slate-gray, semi-circle sofas with gold inlay paired seamlessly with etched Roman columns. Bottles of aged cognac and exotic liqueurs climbed skyward atop glass shelves that merged into the marble ceiling.

Patrons mingled around elegant four-foot vases with thick white lilies, eclipsed under Le Dome cocktail bar’s principal attraction: a 150-foot-high neoclassical dome, modeled after Florence’s Duomo.

Designed by Jacques-Germain Soufflot, the French architect responsible for the Pantheon in Paris, this is also the centerpiece of Lyon’s emblematic Hotel Dieu building—one of the largest developments on the Presqu’île de Lyon, a stretch of peninsula between the Saône and the Rhône rivers in the historic center of the city.

The Hotel Dieu was originally a hospice for traveling pilgrims at the end of the 12th century. In the mid-18th century, Soufflot was commissioned to reconstruct the imposing 1,230-foot-long façade, completing the dome in 1764.

What was once a place of respite for weary travelers is now a luxury destination in Lyon, France’s third-largest city. Entirely restored, with over 100,000 square feet of new construction, the Grand Hotel Dieu houses a 5-star InterContinental hotel, Le Dôme cocktail bar, several restaurants, French fashion and home goods boutiques, and a fitness center. The site is also home to the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie, a workshop and exhibition promoting French culinary arts with an emphasis on sensory discovery.

After a 20-minute wait at Le Dôme (seating is sans resérvation but very efficient), I settled into a sleek armchair and selected the bar’s signature cocktail from the 23-page menu, featuring champagne, lemon juice, and one of Lyon’s specialties—a pink praline syrup with a splash of vodka.

It was easy to see why Le Dôme was dubbed “The Best Hotel Bar in the World” during the 2020-2021 Prix Villegiature awards. The cocktail wasn’t cheap–$21–but gazing around at the incredible setting, I decided it was worth every cent.—Tuula Rampont

TRAVEL HACKS: TRANSPORT

How Locals Travel in Style Around Mexico

the locals and get to akumal on mexicos riviera maya in comfort
Join the locals and get to Akumal on Mexico’s Riviera Maya in comfort.
©MARAKO85/iSTOCK

I just love the small seaside town of Akumal in the Riviera Maya. About 40 minutes south of Playa del Carmen, its white-sand beaches and turquoise waters make up some of the most stunning coastline in all of Mexico.

But… what I don’t love is actually getting to Akumal.

Most tourists, expats, and even some of the locals think the best way to get there is by using the “stuff ‘em in like sardines” colectivo van service. While they’re exceptionally cheap and easy to find, this hop-on, hop-off system along the highways is less than desirable…

You’re crammed into a small van with as many bodies as the driver can fit. Air conditioning is either arctic or barely working, and there are always those lovely odors floating around when people are packed into tight spaces, especially in the stifling Mexican heat. No thanks.

That’s why I was thrilled to discover Mayab, a small local bus network servicing the Riviera Maya region.

The trip to Akumal was only 40 pesos ($2)—the same price as the colectivo vans. With ample leg room, great air conditioning, big comfortable seats, and a happy, chatty driver, it was a lot more luxurious than I’d expected for a mere two dollars. The Mayab service collects and drops off passengers in the heart of Playa del Carmen at the bus terminal on Quinta Avenida (Fifth Avenue), where you can also buy tickets. —Bel Woodhouse.

OPPORTUNITIES

Travel Europe for Free on the Midnight Train

do you have what it takes to be a night train tester you could bag yourself a free trip
Do you have what it takes to be a “Night Train Tester”? You could bag yourself a free trip.
©SCULPIES/iSTOCK

Train travel in Europe has experienced a surge in popularity recently. Sleeper trains in particular are seeing a revival, with new routes being announced around the continent

Sleepers are easy, comfortable, and in some cases, may actually be cheaper than flying. And there’s something inherently romantic about falling asleep to the clicky-clack of a train and waking up in your destination, refreshed and ready to explore.

If you like the sound of that, Italian company Radical Storage (which offers luggage storage in locations all across the globe) is looking for a “Night Train Tester.” Apply here, but you’ll need to be quick—the closing date is July 5th.

The lucky winner will be tasked with exploring the best of Europe by train this summer. You’ll get a month-long Interrail pass, covering seven journeys across the continent and your choice of five night-train routes.

You’ll have to write blog posts and reviews based on your experience, factoring in criteria like quality of sleep, train facilities, crew service etc. You’ll also get a month of free luggage storage in any of Radical Storage’s European locations (ideal for when you hop off your night train but can’t yet check into your hotel or Airbnb). And, they’ll pay £500 ($640) for your insights.

You don’t need to be a travel writer to qualify. But you do need to be over 18 and possess valid travel documents and a camera/smartphone to take high-quality pictures/videos. —John Wallace

CURIOSITIES

The Croissant’s Heroic Beginnings

The year is 1683.

The encroaching Ottoman army of 150,000 soldiers lays siege to the city of Vienna, Austria. Should the city fall, the further conquest of Europe seems inevitable.

During the bitter, two-month-long siege, a humble baker working late hears faint sounds of digging beneath his feet, and alerts the defending forces that the Ottomans are attempting to tunnel into the city. The tunnel is promptly destroyed, and the attackers are buried.

When offered a reward, the baker merely requests the exclusive right to bake his pastries in the shape of a crescent, the iconic symbol on the Ottoman flag, to celebrate the foiled attack.

And thus, the croissant’s predecessor, the “kipferl,” was born. Or at least that’s the popular legend. (The crescent-shaped “kipferl,” is a pastry that’s more akin to a bread roll.)

When a retired Austrian military officer, August Zang, relocated to France in 1839 to open his own bakery, he brought the delicious kipferl along with him. They proved exceptionally popular among the French… and many native bakers imitated the crescent shape.

In 1915, the flaky, buttery delight we know and love today was developed by French chef Sylvain Claudius Goy, becoming synonymous with France. — John Wallace

DIVERSIFY AND BECOME A GLOBAL CITIZEN

When International Living approached me about becoming its Global Diversification Expert, I agreed the time was ripe.

Everywhere I look, Americans are pursuing Plan Bs in other countries. From Portugal to Panama and Ireland to Italy, Americans are exploring options for investment, residency, and citizenship. And I’ve researched the reasons for this extensively…

In the past, most Americans interested in a life abroad were motivated by considerations like climate, retirement, and cost of living. Now they’re also concerned about the stability of their home country… and whether they can trust the U.S. to protect their privacy, their wealth, and their children’s futures.

But if you’re interested in planting a flag abroad, it can be hard to find accurate, actionable information. Google “second passport,” for example, and you might think it’s the preserve of the uberwealthy. Yet I know from personal experience that’s not true. I acquired a second passport when I was still working in the nonprofit sector.

That’s why I’m launching a new service for those of you who are serious about acquiring residency or citizenship abroad, whether you intend to relocate or want the peace of mind a Plan B offers.

In this service, I’ll cover the best countries to acquire a second passport… How to gain citizenship by ancestry or investment… How you can take advantage of existing residency programs to create a platform for a second passport… And how to manage your ongoing relationship to the U.S. once you’ve become a resident or citizen of a second country.

I’ll also cover how all of this affects your personal wealth… and teach you how to protect it abroad.

My new service, The Global Citizen, launches in a few weeks… so stay tuned! —Ted Baumann

HISTORIC GEMS

American WWII Heroes’ Final Resting Place in Africa

On a spontaneous trip to Tunis, Tunisia, I was stunned to find the only U.S. cemetery on the African continent just a brief walk from my hotel.

In the shade of the setting Tunisian sun, rows of forlorn white crosses extend to the horizon, laid out on tightly manicured patches of green lawn. This U.S. WWII cemetery is the only one on the African continent, and serves as the resting place of 2,842 heroes who lost their lives during the North African offensive.

The names of an additional 3,725 who were never found are carved into the “Wall of the Missing.” If you’re not overly familiar with WWII history, the wall-sized, intricate mosaic maps tell the story of the Allies’ North African victories between 1941 and 1943.

I was surprised to learn this cemetery is one of 26 U.S. military graveyards spread across the world… from France all the way to Korea. All are managed by the American Battle Monuments Commission.

To book a private tour of the Tunis cemetery, you can email in advance: northafrica@abmc.gov. —Kathleen Evans

FESTIVALS

South America’s Most Underrated Music Festival?

though an unlikely spot for classical music cartagena hosts a world class festival
Though an unlikely spot for classical music, Cartagena hosts a world-class festival.
©DIEGOGRANDI/iSTOCK

Every January, 20,000 music fans from around the world flock to the sunny coast of northern Colombia to revel in one of South America’s most beloved music festivals.

The Cartagena Music Festival is an annual celebration of classical music. Each year focuses on the works of a great composer or a broader theme. In 2019, the festival highlighted the works of Johann Sebastian Bach, while the 2020 festival centered around “The Beautiful and the Sublime.”

Cartagena de Indias, the host city, is a popular tourist spot, but because of its Miami-esque party scene and younger crowd—Colombians often overlook this classical music event. But it’s well respected internationally among hardcore classical music fans like myself.

At the 2023 festival, I was treated to enthralling European chamber-style performances of Rubinstein, Tchaikovsky, Scriabin, Rachmaninoff, and more.

The shows were spread across some of Cartagena’s most prestigious venues; the Palacio de la Proclamación, the Santa Clara Sofitel Hotel, the Cartagena Convention Center, and most impressive, in my opinion, the Teatro Adolfo Mejía. With a capacity of about 600 people, its style is derived from 19th century European opera houses, and largely inspired by the Tacón Theater in Havana, Cuba.

This year’s festival highlighted the way Eastern European countries promoted their cultural and political norms through music in the 19th century. For example, Antonín Dvořák’s “Slavonic Dances,” which played a crucial part in the formation of early Czech national identity.

This was a fitting theme as Cartagena bears an unmistakable European legacy—much of its architecture dates to the 17th and 18th centuries and the era of Colonial Spanish rule.

San Felipe Castle, perched atop San Lázaro hill, overlooks the city. First constructed in 1657 to defend the city’s thriving slave trade from pirates, it’s one of the main tourist attractions in Cartagena. Imposing artillery batteries and parapets line the castle walls, while a maze of tunnels and bunkers make up the interior.

Defensive walls still traverse the length of the town, enveloping the winding streets and UNESCO-recognized old town. The beautiful Torre del Reloj (clock tower) pierces the sky at the main entrance to this historic coastal gem.

Although the 2023 festival focused on European composers, there were a plethora of incredible local Colombian performers, in particular pianist Teresita Gomez, who performed some of the home country’s contributions to chamber music.

My favorite performance was by the Cartagena Symphonic Orchestra. Founded in 2017 to support and inspire careers in music and promote the city’s culture, the symphony is primarily made up of local musicians aged between 16 and 29.

Most of the events are free, but some of the larger live performances cost $15,000 COP ($3.33), which you can pay at the door.

The dates and theme for the 2024 festival have yet to be announced. Keep an eye on the the festival’s website for updates, as well the musicians that will be taking part. —Michelle Thompson

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