Escape to Bacalar: Mexico’s Lakeside Oasis

Standing on the shores of Lago de Siete Colores (Lake of Seven Colors), it’s not hard to understand how this natural wonder got its name…

Tiffany box blues deepen to aquamarines… bright turquoise seeps into vibrant cobalt… azure blues blend into deep sapphire and indigos. Incredibly clean and clear, this is the most beautiful water I’ve ever seen. And during my time in the Navy, I sailed most of the world’s seven seas.

Lago de Siete Colores lies on Mexico’s Riviera Maya in the township of Bacalar, about two hours south of Tulum.

La laguna (the lagoon), as the locals call it, is 34 miles long and 1.2 miles at its widest point. Nature lovers and flock to this region for the unique environment, the lake provides.

The local Maya and Mexican people believe these waters hold special healing powers. Long before any tourists showed up, the Maya called it Siyan Ka’an Bakjalal “place surrounded by reeds where the sky is born.” A daily swim in the deep blue waters is a holistic practice many lakeside residents share, believing the water helps to heal the mind, body and soul.

But it’s not just the lake that calms the soul here. A symphony of birdsong greets you each morning as emerald parrots take wing to start their day. The cacophony of frogs, the plop of a turtle, or rustle of an iguana enhance the rich sounds of the wildlife.

Every time I come to Bacalar, I’m amazed there aren’t more tourists. Yet Bacalar has grown over the last few years, and some predict it will become one of Mexico’s top destinations.

There’s lot to keep you busy on a visit here, but as you’d imagine, lots of the activities revolve around the lake itself. Boat tours on the lake are popular. If you stop by the waterfront, you’ll find plenty of people offering tours. I did a four-hour morning cruise that had an open bar and snacks for $100 (if you want to splurge, you can hire a private boat for about $245 for a full day).

If you’re a sailor, you can also hire your own catamaran for the day. You can also paddleboard, snorkel, and kayak… or, do as the locals do, and just take a dip in the healing waters.

Another water attraction worth a visit is the Bacalar Rapids (Los Rápidos Bacalar). This lazy river is just a 15-minute taxi ride outside of town, the water is so clear it’s almost glacial in its purity. It’s perfect for marveling at the unique stralotomite rock-like formations that line the perimeter of the rapids. This is one of the few places on earth where stralotomites can be seen.

You can paddleboard and kayak in this turquoise river, but the best way to experience the rapids is to just stretch out and float down them, supported by the gentle current. There’s a 50-peso ($2.50) entry fee, and you’ll also find an onsite restaurant here.

Wildlife lovers, and birders in particular, will want to check out Bird Island (Isla de los Pájaros). Over 250 species of bird spend the winter in this area, so there’s plenty to see…

You may spot the fire-engine red of a woodpeckers mohawk… or the deep golden eyes of an owl… or the cheery little green parrots and sparrow hawks that thrive here. Active Nature offers a three-hour sunrise bird tour for about $26. They’ll take you to the best places to spot the birds. For more information, and to book, see their website.

If you’re a history buff, stop by Bacalar Fort (Fuerte de San Felipe). Completed in 1733, this fort was built by the Spanish to defend Bacalar from repeated attacks by Dutch, French, and British pirates who sailed up and down the Caribbean coast. Designed by an Italian architect Juan Podio, it’s built in the shape of a star, with four points to represent the saints Santa Ana, San Arturo, Santa Maria, and San Joaquin. Located right in the heart of town, it’s hard to miss, and offers panoramic views of the lake.

For me, food is a big part of enjoying a getaway. New restaurants have popped up along the lake, offering every style of cuisine or fusion you could want… all with stunning lake views. You can pick from high-end fare (but the prices are still much cheaper than in the U.S.) to more relaxed, cheaper options that are popular with the locals. Succulent fresh seafood from the nearby Caribbean waters feature on most menus. There’s something here for every dietary restriction and every type of foodie.

My top pick for Italian in Bacalar is Bertilla & Luciano in the center of town, where I enjoyed the best mushroom pizza I’ve ever eaten. But you’ll also find steakhouses, Argentinian grills, amazing burgers, tacos, burrito food vans, and fish n’ chips with a cold beer, along with home comfort foods you may crave, like avocado on toast.

One of the most popular places in town is El Manati, just off the town square. With beautiful outdoor dining in lush tropical gardens, it’s an oasis right in the heart of Bacalar, serving mainly vegetarian options and local Yucatan cuisine. I had scrambled eggs over mushrooms and peppers on homemade multigrain sourdough bread, and my friend had vegetable soup (made with locally grown veggies) with toast on the side. The bill for the two of us, which included drinks, came to just $13.

For baked treats, head to Panadería La Tartaleta (Tartlet Bakery), just a block south of the town square. It’s full of divine eats—like the multi-seeded mini baguettes, berry tarts, and individualsized chocolate cakes you heat into gooey goodness in the microwave. It’s a wonderful place to stop for a coffee or grab something to take home with you.

Bacalar is a very walkable town. Of course, walking around can get hot, so luckily there’s an amazing new ice-cream parlor right on the main town square. The Heladaría Annie Delicias has the best mint-choc-chip ice-cream I’ve ever had—and it’s only 40 pesos ($2) for a delicious waffle cone.

Though Bacalar is stuffed full of things to do and see, it’s also a great place to do… well, nothing. Sit with your morning coffee overlooking the lake, surrounded by truly spectacular nature.

I took morning swims, just after the sun peeked over the horizon, in the lake’s warm water, kicking back to float along and watch the many different birds fly overhead, listening to their sweet song. Followed up by mouth-watering, sweet fresh tropical fruits and a mimosa. And evenings were spent watching the sun set on the dock, under a thatched palapa, with a glass of wine in hand—about as relaxing as it gets.

Accommodations along the lake are abundant and in every price range and preference. You can choose from large hotels with all the amenities or smaller boutique hotels with private beaches and only a few rooms.

Those into eco travel will love the natural eco-lodge villas on stilts built over the water, with private balconies and an onsite restaurant specializing in fresh foods grown in their garden. Some have air conditioning, and some leave it to mother nature’s lake breeze and a fan.

I stayed in a private apartment at Rancho San Fernando right on the lake for $30 a night. Less than a five-minute taxi ride from town, I fell in love with the stunning lake view from the Villa Piña Colada balcony.

For me, Bacalar is the perfect lakeside getaway. There’s plenty do to in and around town… but also lots of tranquil spots to do nothing but admire the views and watch the world go by.