I’ve come prepared for the six-mile trek through the hills of Huacarrumi, about 40 minutes outside of Cuenca, Ecuador: My backpack is stuffed with rain gear, sunscreen, water bottles, cans of tuna, Cheetos, soda, some peanuts, dog food for strays, and a nice camera.

At the trail head, it’s a classic Ecuadorian scene, right out of a tabletop photo book: An indigenous man wearing tribal attire is pulling his donkey, who in turn is carting an old wooden wagon. Expats start pulling out carrots, and I feed the donkey Cheetos (don’t judge me—they’ll eat anything).

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