Roam Like a Viking… From Secret Samsø to the Baltic Sea

Denmark is a nation built on islands. A thousand years ago, Vikings needed to be excellent sailors… not only to conquer the world, but to simply keep the island nation linked together.

Nothing has changed since the first century… except that the nation is now efficiently connected by bridge, bus, rail, and ferry—not just wooden boats.

As such, spectacular island nature and lovely ancient villages are just a short trip away from Copenhagen’s city center… and many visitors overlook them.

Bornholm Island and Svaneke

Lying off the coast of Sweden in the Baltic Sea, beautiful Bornholm Island is a favorite getaway destination for Danes and tourists from all over Northern Europe.

The island has many picturesque fishing villages and little harbors with cafés and restaurants to take some “hyggehygge” time in. For the more active adventurers, hiking, rock climbing, fishing, kayaking, and diving to sea wrecks are all possibilities given the vast and varying nature of this island, which ranges from sheer rock formations left over from the ice age to pine forests, and meadows and the Baltic Sea.

Of special note, especially for history and architectural buffs, is the famous medieval fortress of Hammershus… the ancient setting of conflicts between Swedes and Danes.

Whoever ruled Hammershus, ruled Bornholm.

One of my favorite little towns in all of Denmark for a weekend escape is located on Bornholm’s eastern coast. Called Svaneke, many Danes I know have told me it’s Denmark’s “most beautiful town”—and it’s been named as such by a Danish cultural/historical society.

I’m inclined to agree. The village sits over a quiet harbor surrounded by half-timbered homes, craggy rocks tumbling into the sea, and a lovely main street preserved in time by strict building regulations.

It’s a great spot to put alarm clocks away, take time out from your city life, and transition to island time.

There’s a good selection of places to eat and drink in town, including a popular bakery and fish smokery, as well as good eats ranging from classic Danish smørrebrød (buttered open-face sandwiches) to higher-end Scandic-Bistro. Try Restaurant 1B for a playful and reinvented take on smørrebrød made on dark rye or sourdough bread from the local bakery. (And enjoy the view over the water.)

If going more rustic or planning a picnic on the rocks (or on grass), try the wildly popular Svaneke Røgeri (Svaneke Smokehouse) with smoked goodies from the sea.

Or pick up some fresh baked goodies at the town bakery.

For a cozy overnight stay, check out Hotel Siemsens Gaard. It comes with hygge-rooms and a calm, protected inner-garden giving lovely views right over Svaneke Harbor.

You can get to Bornholm in several ways. Flying from Copenhagen to Bornholm takes about 35 minutes. You can take a seven-hour ferry from Copenhagen, but I recommend traveling to the port in Ystad, Sweden and taking the one-hour ferry from there. A bus will get you from Copenhagen to Ystad in about 3½ hours, while a car takes about three hours.

Kronborg Castle in Helsingør/Elsinore

Probably the world’s most famous castle— better known as “Hamlet’s Castle”— Kronborg is the fortress used as the tragic stage for one of Shakespeare’s most famous plays. Built in 1420, the castle is in the wonderfully vibrant town of Helsingør, only 45 minutes from Copenhagen by train.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Kronborg served as the main armed gatekeeper of Øresund Sound, where ships entering the Baltic Sea were forced to pay tolls.

There are guided tours offered throughout the day inside the castle, where actors in period dress explain its history and intrigue. It’s an amazing place to step back to a time when royalty ruled the world—often simply by killing each other off.

Helsingør (also known as Elsinore) has a wonderful Old Town to explore, with many places to eat and drink and astonishingly well-preserved architecture dating back to the 15th century. The Old Town’s homes, built out of timber set inside brick exteriors painted in colorful pastels, give a vibrant hue to the cobblestones as you walk along them into another time.

For a break and a bite of seafood or steak, try the Scandic-style bistro, Strejf. Or for something more casual and less expensive, check out Miss Coffee, serving good bagel sandwiches, hot coffee, cakes and other sweets. Popular with locals.

Roskilde

This delightful medieval city looming over Roskilde Fjord was the main hub for Viking trade and the capital of Denmark some 1000 years ago. Only 25 minutes away from Copenhagen by train, it’s home to one of the most beautiful churches in Europe—Roskilde Cathedral—complete with a crypt full of Viking royalty dating back to the 15th century.

From the stone tombs beneath the bricks, to the vaulted ceiling soaring above your head, this nearly 800-year-old architectural wonder is a must-see as the first Gothic and Romanesque structure in Scandinavia. (And as another UNESCO World Heritage Site.)

While there, be sure to also visit The Viking Ship Museum, where you’ll find five original 11th-century Viking ships, pulled from Roskilde Fjordre. The setup allows visitors to get a closer look at the actual vessels Vikings used to rule the seas for over two centuries. There’s also a modern shipbuilding facility onsite, where craftsmen rebuild Viking vessels to full scale.

After exploring the cathedral and museum, head to the pedestrian-only street lined with restaurants, cafés, and shops. Grab a reasonably-priced bite at locally run Lene’s Streetfood. This food wagon dishes out Danish hot dogs, roast pork sandwiches, meatballs, and burgers. Vegetarian dogs and burgers are offered as well.

Samsø Island

Samsø is a small island set in the middle of the Kattegat Sea—and once a key meeting place for Vikings due to its central location in between Denmark’s main land masses and islands. This is a local “secret” and mostly unknown to foreigners. (Its popularity among Danes likely gives Bornholm a run for its money.)

At only 28 kilometers long from its north to south end, Samsø’s a great island to explore by foot or on bike. It has a serene feel… and a wild one.

You’ll be surrounded by sheep and spectacular nature that changes daily, given its location in the middle of the unpredictable Kattegat Sea.

One of the coolest things nature provides for Samsø residents is a nearly 100% carbon-free footprint, where wind, biomass, and electricity provide the island’s power needs.

Samsø’s also known for its gorgeous tasting Danish new potatoes, as well as its strong community spirit, showcased in wonderful little artistic enclaves populated by artists who settled on the island. Check out the towns of Ballen, Besser, and Nordby for window shopping:

For unique eats, try out Søster Sidevind (Sister Sidewind) in Besser for lunch with smoked salmon that melts on your tongue—and might be the best salmon you’ll ever taste. Afterward, shop for knick-knacks in the little store where handcrafted goods like glassware and Christmas ornaments made by locals are available, along with treats like Samsø jam, apple cider, and snaps.

Given its popularity with Danes, it’s wise to book well in advance—or offseason— for an overnight stay. Try the Ballen Badehotel (The Ballen Bathing Hotel) for a uniquely Danish experience of putting visitors inside a super cozy, waterfront hotel to take in the health benefits of land, sea, and air.

Other accommodations on Samsø are also available, ranging from apartments to B&Bs and summer cottages.

It’s surprisingly easy to get to Samsø without a car. In 1½ hours, a train from Copenhagen drops you off a few hundred yards from the ferry terminal at Kalundborg; the ferry crossing takes about 1½ hours.

Once there, you can rent a bike or call for a bus-van service to come pick you up and drop you off. (Be sure to call two hours in advance to book the service.)

If you rent a car, watch out for sheep and other animals while driving on the island’s roads!