Temples, Teak Barons, and Mystical Quartz in Thailand

Ipeer over the edge of the wooden bridge with trepidation. My eyes scan the jagged rocks below… I must be about 60 feet in the air.

The beginning of this trek was easy. A mini-bus stationed at the bottom of Doi Phra Bat mountain took me halfway up the mountain. But the rest of the journey had to be made on foot. My mission: to reach the top of the mountain, home to the Buddhist temple of Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat Phrachomklao in Thailand’s Lampang province.

Nestled in a lush river valley in northwest Thailand, Lampang province is known for its soaring white stupas. These large, bell-shaped mounds of earth are coated in a stark white plaster and house Buddhist relics. Despite the region’s long history as a place of worship, devout worshippers only constructed these stupas a little over a decade ago. They principally attract Thai locals, who refer to them as floating chedis (temples).

It’s easy to see where they get the “floating” half of their nickname. Stupas balance on rocky peaks overlooking radiant green rice fields… and seemingly require the power of flight to be reached.

I’ve long wanted to make this journey. I’ve called Thailand home for some time, and I was ready to stray from the beaten path of tourists bouncing between Bangkok and Phuket.

During the upward climb to the stupas, Lampang’s wide valley and surrounding mountains slowly reveal themselves. “You’re nearly there,” a lone American tourist says to me on her way down. “It’s only 255 steps up. You can do it.”

I reach the summit and choose the stairway that goes directly to the Wat Wat Chaloem Phra Kiat Phrachomklao. I see eight stupas sitting on the peaks of rock clusters. It looks otherworldly, as if summoned by the divine. The dazzling blue sky frames their iconic white shapes and a wave of tranquility descends upon me. This was worth every perilous bridge and steep incline.

My new mission: to be your guide to the hidden gems of Lampang.

British Colonial Influences

Though Thailand was never formally colonized by the West, its northern provinces—particularly Lampang—were heavily influenced by British and American immigrants.

American Protestant missionaries arrived in the mid- to late 19th century. Many were medical doctors sent to Chiang Mai to help steer the local Buddhists toward Christianity while providing health services. At the same time, the British took advantage of the then-booming teak industry.

Today, the city of Lampang—a mere 90-minute drive from Chiang Mai—heads the province. Though it’s a sprawling, modern metropolis set against a rural backdrop of rice fields and small mountains, you can still find evidence of these British teak wallahs, or loggers, around Lampang’s old town.

On Talad Gao Road, the main street running through the old town, you’ll find a collection of sweet colonial style homes. (This area of Lampang reminds me a little of Penang, Malaysia or even Hoi An in Vietnam.) This is a great place to stroll, stop for some $4 rice or noodles from a street cart, get a massage for $6, and take in the lovely old buildings.

This is also where you’ll find the lively Kad Kong Ta night market. Among the many trinkets, you’ll also discover some treasures… like locally made purses, homemade children’s stuffed toys, and paintings on rustic wood. Every other stall seems to be selling food, although you might want to watch out for the noodle dishes that contain congealed blood—it’s a delicacy in Northern Thailand.

If you walk past Ratchadapisek Bridge, you’ll spot a gem of a restaurant called The Wooden House, which has a great range of quality food, from satay to sweet and sour chicken for less than $4… and the friendly local ambience, river view, and live band on the weekends are free.

And if you’re looking for some unique local jewelry, head to the other end of the Talad Gao Road and stop by Papacraft, a coffee/jewelry shop where the owner, Chang, designs and makes all of the pieces. His specialty is creating pieces using leather and a special quartz that can only be found in Lampang.

Locals believe this quartz is powerful for warding off bad spirits and promoting health, wealth, and happiness. For example, you can buy different types of quartz to “enhance sexual performance” and “cure illnesses.” The choice is yours… for around $60.

And while considering your options, you can sit back, chat to Chang, and enjoy a sweet mango smoothie.

The Hollywood Connection

For the movie buffs, Lampang has links to the 1956 Hollywood movie The King and I, starring Yul Brenner and Deborah Kerr. Set in Siam (Thailand was known as Siam up until the late 1930s) in the mid-19th century, the movie was based on the true story of Anna Leonowens, who came here from Wales to tutor the children of King Mongkut of Siam. Anna brought along her son Louis who went on to become a successful teak wallah and Thai personality.

Just a five-minute drive from Talad Gao Road, the Leonowens’ house is an old teak structure that takes inspiration from both Britain and Thailand. High ceilings cool the house, providing a welcome respite from Thailand’s humidity. As you travel the rooms, take a peek at relics and photos from the era… all seemingly untouched in the years since Louis’ time here.

Just next door is Louis’ office, where a large safe calls back to the business magnate’s dealmaking days.

The Leonowens’ house was recently renovated and is now a museum, the Louis Leonowens House. If you love architecture or history, this place is well-worth the donation-based entry fee. Just keep in mind that the museum is only open on the weekends.

A Temple-Lover’s Paradise

Lampang boasts nine Burmese temples… a calling card from northern Thailand’s time under Burma (now Myanmar). Wat Si Rong Mueang is centrally located and is a visual spectacle. Erected in the early 20th century by Burmese loggers, it’s made from teak and was built to represent Mount Meru, the mountain central to Buddhist cosmology.

On the outside the viharn (temple building) is looking its age, but its interior is another story. Multicolored glass glitters along the main wall, while large wooden Buddha statues depict enlightenment. The walls are bright red with golden adornments and colorful patterns swirl over the many columns holding this temple aloft.

One of the most popular temples in Lampang is Wat Prathat Lampang Luang, a 14th-century temple that sits on a hill just outside of town. It is striking in its simplicity. There’s no glitter or ornate gold here, but if you look carefully on the temple walls, you’ll see faded murals of street scenes around 200 years old. Some are difficult to spot, but you can just make out scenes of people cooking.

The temple atmosphere is tranquil and the large grounds are home to a museum with old Buddhist relics and works of art. Like the Louis Leonowens House, admission is free, though a donation is recommended.

Unlike many of the region’s attractions, Wat Prathat Lampang Luang is very much geared toward tourists, with a market across the street, small eateries, and flower-clad horse and buggies for tourists to ride for under $9.

Here, you’ll also find Lampang’s famous ceramics. This industry grew in the 1950s when immigrants from Guangdong—a city in China known for its porcelain wares—moved here thanks to Thailand’s open trade policy and brought their ceramic-making skills with them. Conveniently, these immigrants soon found that Lampang has superior porcelain white clay in its lands.

If you’re going to buy a Lampang ceramic, make sure it’s the iconic bowl with a hand-painted rooster on it. It’s said to carry good, powerful energy that will bring luck to the owner. As I learned, there are two types of painted roosters. One stands proudly and is meant for the upper classes. The other looks like it’s running, and is designed for the working classes. Choose wisely.

Non, my guide at the Dhanabadee Ceramic Museum, explained one of the theories behind the rooster’s significance. “Some people believe the Buddha came here a long time ago and he slept,” he says. “Indra, a Hindu god, saw that the Buddha was sleeping, so he transformed himself into the rooster to wake up the Buddha.”

The rooster came to signify waking to perform Buddhist practices at sunrise—fitting for fresh adventures overseas.