Why Costa Rica’s Most Famous Beach Town Isn’t Just for Surfers

It’s the early 1970s. North American surfers have discovered a sleepy fishing village on Costa Rica’s Pacific Coast. Hard to get to, and without electricity until 1974, the beaches were uncrowded… and the waves were epic.

For nearly two decades, these wave riders had Tamarindo all to themselves. But two events turned this hidden gem into a top surfing destination… and ultimately, an expat hotspot for beach lovers.

In the early 1990s, director Bruce Brown filmed the legendary Robert August surfing Tamarindo’s waves in Endless Summer II. (Endless Summer, the 1966 original, followed a teenage August searching the world for the perfect wave.)

A year later, the nearest airport (in Liberia) began to welcome international flights—before this, all international flights arrived into the capital of San José. And thus began Tamarindo’s meteoric rise from hidden surf town to one of Costa Rica’s most popular destinations.

I first came to Costa Rica during college for a semester at the Institute for Central American Development Studies close to the University of Costa Rica in San Pedro (near San José). I loved the relaxed pura vida vibe of the country, the way Ticos accepted me into their culture, and the Latin flair in the music and nightlife.

After graduation, I came back to Costa Rica and worked at a beach bar in Tamarindo. Life was good… I lived at the beach, learned how to surf, and didn’t have a care in the world.

I had always known that I was meant to live by the ocean… to embrace a tropical lifestyle. I love being able to dip into the warm Pacific Ocean any time of day, marveling at the brightly colored flowers that always dotted my path with pinks, oranges, and yellows, and reenergizing during the laid-back sunset hour. I had always wanted my motto to be, “If you want to look me up, I’m under a coconut tree.” And I was living that dream.

After two years in Tamarindo, I returned to the U.S. for almost a decade, but I always knew I’d come back… and I did, in 2020. I was living in the Central Valley when I got pregnant with my twins and decided to stay in the area for the accessible healthcare (more on that later). But when they were two years old, we moved back to my “happy place”… the beach.

When I first visited Tamarindo in 2000, the town had no paved roads or pharmacies, just a handful of hotels. And it had only recently gotten phone service.

Fast forward 23 years… and Tamarindo is a bustling beach town. Walking around, you’ll hear local singers, howling monkeys, and mariachi bands. You’ll be dazzled by fire shows, the outrageous colors of tropical birds, and by the pink sky at sunset…the “magic hour.”

Tamarindo’s 1.5-mile-long beach draws everyone out for the magic hour—locals and expats sip cocktails as they stroll along on the white sands, kids explore the tide pools or play soccer… and of course, the surfers ride the evening waves.

But there’s much more to Tamarindo, and the surrounding area, than just beaches…

A Strong Community and Plenty to Keep You Busy

In Tamarindo, people prioritize spending time outdoors together, and you’ll always meet someone you know when walking around town.

I love hitting the beach early in the morning. A sunrise walk with my dog is the perfect start to any day. During the week, I teach English conversation online for about five hours a day. Then, in the afternoons and evenings, I write articles in my role as IL Costa Rica Correspondent, and I also create content for a digital marketing company.

One of my favorite things to do is to spend time with friends on the beach (especially for Friday night sunsets and Sunday beach afternoons). And meeting up at one of the many restaurants around town or getting together at a friend’s pool for a book club meeting are precious times of laughter and community for me.

Oneida Park is a favorite local meeting spot for basketball, skateboarding, and the Saturday morning feria (outdoor market). People go to chat with friends and buy everything from fresh produce, seafood, and chocolate croissants to essential oils, paintings, and local honey.

Although the beach is often the focal point of social gatherings in Tamarindo (to surf, boogie board, or just lay around in a hammock all day), there’s also plenty to do away from the sand.

If you want to stay active, choose from 10 fitness studios in town that offer training classes, spin classes, and Pilates. You’ll find plenty of options for yoga (no matter your level), Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu, swimming clubs, dance classes, baseball, soccer, and pickleball.

There are also less strenuous activities to keep you busy: music classes, medicinal plant classes, paint nights, jewelry classes and kombucha making. You’ll also find weekly sound healings, cacao ceremonies, reiki practitioners, sweat lodges, and women’s networking events.

Regina Kriz, a South Carolina native, winters in Tamarindo with her husband, who considers the golf course at Hacienda Pinilla (about a 30-minute drive from Tamarindo) his “happy place.” He meets friends and plays this scenic course with holes along the ocean.

There are many choices when it comes to assimilating into the local culture, too. Taking Spanish lessons with Belen or Silvia is a great way to improve your language skills and meet other expats (although you don’t need Spanish to live here).

You may prefer to enjoy more relaxing events, such as La Senda’s sound journey followed by a farm-to-table dinner or a vegan popup dinner by El Aguacate Vegan. And for night owls, Tamarindo offers something for all tastes. Live bands and DJs from around the world come to perform throughout the year.

Nicole Rangel, who’s lived in Tamarindo for six years, loves the ability to dance all night long and move safely between different bars and clubs. “I enjoy the music, cocktails, food, and energy,” she says, “especially at Rumors, Chiquitas, and La Oveja Negra.”

Living Costs

While the cost of living in Tamarindo is lower than in many coastal North American towns, the influx of North American and European expats in recent years has pushed prices higher.

It’s possible to keep things simple and live frugally (a couple may be able to live on $2,000 in some parts of Costa Rica, but Tamarindo is seeing higher rents these days). A monthly budget of more than $3,500 is more realistic if you want to live close(ish) to the beach, dine out, have a few luxury items, and own a car.

Things like fruits and veggies are cheaper here than in the U.S. My food bill is about $200 per week. And expat Melissa Ryan’s food bill is “half what it would be in California.” But imported goods like name-brand cereals and crackers do cost more.

Tamarindo has many options for foodies… everything from sushi to Italian to Asian. Restaurant prices are often comparable to the U.S., but they’re worth it. I love the homemade lobster ravioli at La Pachanga, the thin-crust arugula pizza at La Baula, and the beef served on sizzling volcanic rocks at Pangas. There are also sodas (local restaurants) where you can order a casado (rice, beans, meat, and a salad) for around $7.

My two kids and I live on about $3,800 a month. In 2010, I bought 2,300 square feet of land for $22,000 and built a three-bedroom house for another $120,000. It helps that I own my home, but the mortgage is around $800 a month. Then there’s a $135 community maintenance fee, $160 for electricity, $20 for water, and a $200 Caja payment for public healthcare.

One of my biggest expenses is my car. While car insurance is much less expensive here than in the U.S., buying a car (new or used) and the maintenance are more costly. I recently needed a new clutch and was quoted over $850 for the parts. To save some money, I bought the part I need on eBay for $300, and a friend will bring it with her from the U.S. when she visits.

It means I’ll be without a car for a while (which is challenging with two kids), but we use taxis (about $6 around town), ask friends for rides, and walk. Buses are also an affordable option (about $2 a ride).

Top Notch Healthcare

It’s easy to access excellent healthcare in Tamarindo. Many private clinics and doctors in the area even share their cell numbers.

But the closest public hospitals are in Nicoya and Liberia, each over an hour’s drive away. Liberia has many clinics in addition to the private Hospital San Rafael Arcángel. (I can also visit Hospital CIMA, which many consider to be the best private hospital, in San José.)

I use a mix of private healthcare and the socialized Caja system for my family’s healthcare needs (as a resident, I’m required to be enrolled in the Caja system). Initially, I was nervous about having my premature twins in the public hospital in San José. But the neonatal unit provided excellent care.

I had to bring both kids to the public Nicoya hospital in 2021, and once again, we had a great experience. The nurses were friendly and comforting to my son (who’s afraid of needles), and even ordered us takeout from a local restaurant one evening.

It’s more complicated to use the Caja if you aren’t fluent in Spanish (many doctors speak English, but the nursing staff don’t). But you can find a friend to help translate.

If you have serious, ongoing health concerns and are considering a move to Tamarindo, consider private health insurance (even if you want to live here part-time). Several well-known international insurers operate in Costa Rica. But you’ll need to understand their different terms and conditions. (A friend recommends contacting insurance agent Roberto Merino.)

Melissa Ryan pays much less for her global expat insurance than she used to pay in California. She spends about $700 monthly on major medical insurance with good add-ons, like cancer treatment, for her family of four. They also use Medi-smart (a prepaid medical plan that gives you medical discounts) for $38 a month, to lower their out-of-pocket cost for office visits. Without this plan, I pay $40 for office visits and around $100 for specialist appointments.

The Real Estate Scene

Tamarindo has seen a surge of digital nomads and expat families in recent years. And it’s also become popular with middle-class Costa Ricans.

These days, finding a two-bedroom apartment to rent long-term near the beach for under $2,700 a month can be challenging. There’s also a shortage of long-term rentals. Carolyn Herman, the owner of RPM Real Estate Costa Rica, explains: “Since 2021, short-term rentals have been in demand all year round. Lots of homeowners can stay in their place a few times a year and rent it out the rest of the time, and so long-term rentals just don’t make sense for owners anymore.”

But, if you look a few miles away from the beach, you can often find more affordable options in neighborhoods like Huacas, Villarreal, and La Garita.

A 15-minute drive from the center of Tamarindo, a two-bedroom, two-bathroom, furnished condo in The Oaks development rents for $1,900 a month (with a year-long lease). You’ll also get access to the shared swimming pools, manicured gardens, and an outdoor gym area.

I also found a three-bedroom, two-bathroom home with a swimming pool and tropical gardens about six miles from the beach for $3,000 a month.

“Real estate in this area is higher than three years ago,” says expat Camilla Maurita. “But the cost per square foot is still less than in Central Florida, and closing costs to acquire property are a fraction of what you’d pay in the U.S. Plus, property taxes are significantly lower.”

Facebook pages like Tamarindo Rentals and Real Estate often post rentals and are worth watching. If you’re looking to buy, check out: ReMax Ocean Surf and Sun and Blue Water Properties.

Nearby Communities for Beach Lovers

There’s a lot of action in Tamarindo, so if you’re looking for somewhere quieter, but still within easy reach of all the amenities of town, there are some beautiful communities up and down the coast that are attracting expats.

Within a 30-minute drive of town, you’ll find glittering black-sand beaches…beaches with big waves (a surfer’s delight)… and smaller protected bays for the kids to explore.

Playa Langosta

Playa Langosta is about a mile south of Tamarindo and has a different vibe; it’s quieter and more laidback. The shoreline is dotted with beautiful villas, condos, and small boutique properties. This beach is excellent for chilling out and soaking up the sun.

Carolyn Herman built a home in the Langosta area in 2018. “My family wanted something with a little more space and trees—outside of the hustle and bustle of town,” she says. “Langosta is great because it’s more residential yet close enough to walk to Tamarindo.”

Playa Potrero and Playa Flamingo

Playa Flamingo and its neighbor Playa Potrero are a little over 30 minutes north of Tamarindo. If you’re looking for a smaller, more intimate community, this is an area to consider.

Playa Flamingo is known for its white sand with a light pink hue and clear blue waters. This luxury destination in Guanacaste is famous for its high-end accommodations and grand ocean views, and you can enjoy its restaurants, bars, and shops scattered along the coast. There’s also a newly opened, full-service marina.

Playa Potrero is a golden-sand beach lined with palm trees… perfect for swimming and sunbathing. Since it’s quiet and a bit secluded, this area attracts a lot of expats to its gated communities.

Jeanne Bellew and her husband, James, chose the Surfside (the south side of Potrero Bay) because it has everything they wanted. “It’s a neighborhood with Ticos and expats, on the beach, and close to grocery stores, restaurants, a boutique hotel, a sailing center, and a brewery,” she says.

Playa Grande

As its name suggests, Playa Grande is an expansive stretch of sand perfect for strolling along. This beach is known to have fast, steep waves (perfect for a short board if you’re into surfing) and is known as one of the best surf spots in the country.

The small, walkable, sleepy town has fewer than 1,000 people, but this is increasing as construction is currently booming in the area. There are a handful of restaurants and bars and some boutique hotels. It’s a 30-minute drive (or a two-minute, $2, boat taxi ride across the estuary) from the center of Tamarindo.

“What I love about living here is being able to get away from it all, to sit quietly in nature,” says expat Angela Yadon. “But there is also a strong sense of community. There are beach clean-ups, night markets, block parties, and live music events. Also, the skate parks, great restaurants, and classes at the Unity Center provide plenty to do.”

Playa Avellana and Playa Negra

Avellana and Negra are about a 30-minute drive (on a rugged road) south from Tamarindo. Both beaches have an early-to-bed, early-to-rise vibe. They’re not built up like Tamarindo and so are quieter. This is the perfect spot to connect with nature and live off the beaten path.

Avellana tends to attract retired surfers. There are eight surf breaks right off the coast, and it’s also becoming a surfers’ destination with surf camps popping up. This beach is also being added to the Costa Rica surf competition circuit, so you can expect it to become busier.

Right now, though, this area is still pretty rustic, with little infrastructure. There’s a plan to bring water to the area, but there is still no bank, ATM, medical clinic, or vet here.

But there are various dining options, such as Lola’s right on the beach or Il Rustico in Avellana. Villa Deevena in Negra, the place to go for a gourmet experience.

A Video Tour of Tamarindo, Costa Rica