A New Life in An Old World… Living the Dream on Gozo

The island of Gozo called me like a siren. From the ferry, I could see Mgarr Harbor and the brilliantly colored fishing boats heading into the Mediterranean. Limestone buildings nestled in the hillsides blazed amber in the golden sunrise. This was 2019—my first visit to Malta’s second-largest island—and I was immediately enchanted.

After that initial trip, my husband Kevin and I began thinking of making it our retirement home abroad. And in January of 2023, we took the leap… moving from Northern California to begin our new life in an old world.

We had a number of reasons for choosing Malta. The diverse culture and way of life were equally influential. Malta has been coveted and conquered over the centuries by 12 different nations, including the Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, Normans, Sicilians, Spanish, French, and British. And each conqueror left their mark on the architecture, art, music, language, food, and religion. Today, Malta is an independent republic and a member of the EU.

Another reason we chose Malta was for the location. In retirement, we work part time as travel writers, photographers, and hotel scouts. And this tiny island nation in the center of the Mediterranean is surrounded by Europe, the Middle East, and Africa. By basing ourselves here, we have quick and budget-friendly access to places like Sicily, Tunisia, Libya, Greece, Turkey, Egypt, Morocco, Spain, and France (all are a ferry ride or a short flight away).

Although most expats live on the main island of Malta, we chose smaller, quieter Gozo. We were drawn by rural lifestyle and slower rate of development. Gozo is just 26 square miles and is primarily agricultural. Small farms fill valleys with terraced hillsides. Time passes slowly… The pace of life feels like at least 40 years in the past. But it’s one of the things we love about it.

After visiting the 18 villages of Gozo, looking for our place to settle, we decided on three potentials—Ghajnsielem, Qala, and Nadur. They are all on major bus lines and not far from the ferry terminal for trips to the main island.

Nadur was our final choice because of its location. It is the second-highest village with a magnificent view across the Gozo Channel and the isles of Malta and Comino. We love sitting on our terrace watching ferries and sailboats crossing the incredibly blue water. And for those hot, humid days, Nadur’s height delivers a cooling southerly sea breeze with nothing blocking it from our windows and terrace.

Other reasons for making Nadur our new home are the small shops and markets, cafés, and restaurants we can walk to. On Wednesday mornings Nadur hosts one of the island’s largest street markets, where anything you might like is for sale.

And Nadur is located on three bus lines. Getting to any village on the island is quick and easy. There are also walking paths that lead to close-by towns and beaches.

The village has lots of activities in the main square. At least once a week, there is a concert, traditional Maltese music performance, or an art exhibit, a car show, or some other event. It’s the perfect place to meet folks and join in the fun.

The village church is also a fruitful source of activities. Spaghetti dinners are my favorite, but there are classes, social gatherings, bingo, and activities for kids.

In addition, there are expat social groups, websites, and social media accounts that have been a rich source of new acquaintances and information.

On Facebook, we are active in the Gozo Expats and Island of Gozo groups. A website that has been very helpful is Malta Uncovered. It’s a wealth of current information, and Ed, the author and editor, is always glad to answer questions and give guidance.

English is the official second language of Malta, so settling in here has been easy, and the Maltese are friendly folks. They are good-natured and love to help newcomers. We made several friends at the bus stop and our favorite village café, Andria’s.

In Search of Our “Must Have” Home

We knew we wanted to rent rather than buy a home, so we started our search by making a list of “must” and “must not have” features we fancied. For example, our new home must have a sea view and a large, well-equipped kitchen. And it must not be in a large complex. Then we spent hours researching online to get an idea of what our apartment might cost and set our maximum rental budget.

Within a week, we found our Nadur apartment with the help of Dhalia Real Estate. Our agent, Gaitano, worked diligently to fulfill our needs. We found a fully furnished, second-floor, three-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment for €700 ($760) a month. It has sea and country views, that fully equipped kitchen we wanted, a sea-view terrace, a laundry room, and a lift. The 2,200-square-foot apartment has Maltese tile, Italian marble surfaces, and high-end furnishings.

If you’re going to rent in Malta, here are a few things you should know…

At the lease signing, you’ll need one month’s rent, a deposit equal to one month’s rent, an agent’s fee equal to a half month’s rent, and 18% VAT (Value Added Tax) on one month’s rent. This is standard.

Cash in euros was required for the rent, deposits, fees, and taxes (foreign checks aren’t accepted). Some real estate companies will take a credit card, but our agent and landlord wanted cash, as most will.

To be valid, the lease must be registered with the Rent Registration Office, part of the Housing Authority. Our landlord took care of this, and we received a notice from the Rent Registration office confirming it was done.

Living On Our Pensions

Rent, utilities, transportation, food, and entertainment are far cheaper here than in California. In Gozo, we can live comfortably on our combined pensions and even have money left for our travel fund.

Food basics cost less here. For example a small loaf of fresh bread is $1, and I can get a dozen eggs for $2.30, and a kilo of local oranges for $1.30. Locally produced foods like lamb, rabbit, chicken, pork, tomatoes, potatoes, dates, olives, lemons, pumpkins, broad beans, and incredible herbs can be found in the markets and shops for prices I still find hard to believe.

I’ve never been a “shop till you drop” kind of person, but I must admit, I enjoy shopping in Nadur. In the village, there are small specialty “mom-and-pop” type shops—so the butcher sells only meat and the baker makes and sells fresh bread, cakes, and pies daily. There are three small grocers that sell grocery and deli items and our little town also has clothing stores, a newsstand, two pharmacies, a florist, and a pet supply shop.

Mobile hawkers are among my favorite merchants. Small trucks and vans with unique melodic horns pass through the village. Then they stop and open up shop at various locations. There is a baker, a greengrocer, a fishmonger, a general goods seller, and a gas man. For the gas man, you leave your empty gas canister on your stoop and an envelope with €15. In return, he’ll leave you a full canister.

Street markets are my second favorite place to shop. On Wednesdays in Nadur, vendors fill the square with everything from apples to zippers. It’s a social and shopping event. I’m learning the art of bartering (it’s almost expected here and the best way to get a bargain).

There are supermarkets and malls in Victoria, a 15-minute bus ride from my home. I occasionally shop there, but I’ve come to know the folks that have shops in my village, and I like supporting them. And the village’s prices (especially food) are a little lower.

We don’t own a car here. Neither of us wanted the challenge (they drive on the left) or expense. Narrow streets meander through villages designed centuries ago when donkeys and carts were the primary mode of travel. By doing away with two cars, we eliminated car payments, insurance, taxes, license fees, fuel, and maintenance, putting over $10,000 a year back into our cash flow.

Instead, we use our feet and public transport. Bus service is plentiful, efficient, clean, and safe. But best of all, it’s free for residents (non-resident fare is $2.16). If you purchase a Tallinja card (bus card), you’ll pay as little as €3 ($3.24) per day for unlimited rides. We also use BOLT, an Uber-like app.

We take one of the two ferry services when we go to the main island, Malta. Roundtrip for a senior foot passenger is €4.56 ($5) for the Gozo Channel Ferry—a 20-minute ride to the north end of Malta. And €6 ($6.50) for the Gozo Fast Ferry—a 45-minute ride to Valletta, Malta’s capital on the east of the island.

We Save On Healthcare

Once we have our permanent residency status (see below), we’ll be eligible for the National Healthcare System. It’s provided at no cost to all permanent residents and citizens.

Until then, we have a health insurance policy designed for expats with Laferla Insurance. It costs €1,200 ($1,299) annually for both of us. In California, our Social Security Medicare premiums totaled $3,960 annually. Our expat policy has no deductible and pays 100% of the bill (except for elective procedures). When we moved here, we discontinued our Medicare, and have now added $2,500 to our annual cash flow, while receiving better coverage.

Becoming a Permanent Resident

We appreciate our new life in this old world, and have applied for residency. While it’s relatively easy, it takes time and lots of paperwork. See Identity Malta Expatriates Unit to find a residency permit that works best for you.

If you decide you want to move here and apply for residency, apply for a long term visa before you arrive. You must apply at the Malta Embassy in your country. Without the long-term visa you can only stay 90 days within a 180-day period, and the resident application process is likely to take longer than 90 days.

Since the end of 2022, residency applications can only be submitted online. The application fee is now €27.50 ($29.80), but there are other fees involved depending on the type of permit you want. Once you receive approval, you must appear in person at an Identity Malta office for your identity card. In your acceptance letter, you’ll be told where to go and how to make an appointment. With permanent residency you get all the rights of a Maltese citizen, except voting.