Exploring the ‘Heart of the Fjords’ in Bergen, Norway

Pulling into the train station in the city of Bergen was a strange experience. It was 10 p.m. at night… but it was still bright. I was in Norway, at 60 degrees latitude, in other words, so close to the Arctic Circle that the sun here doesn’t set until well into the night.

I’d always been fascinated by the countries of Scandinavia, and though I had explored most of Western Europe many times, in particular the warmer Mediterranean destinations, I had never been this far north. So when two Norwegian friends, Svien and his wife Grethe, who I met on my Greek home island of Syros, extended an invitation to their native city, I couldn’t resist.

The city of Bergen is on Norway’s Bergenshalvoyen peninsula, on the southwest coast, one of the warmest spots in the country. But, be warned, the winds that come off the Norwegian Sea carry load-bearing rain clouds to the surrounding mountains, and those clouds bring rain to the city. But those mountains and the accompanying fjords that surround the city give stunning panoramic views and scenic hiking trails.

Waking up on my first morning in my hosts’ home, about a 40-minute drive from the city center in the delightful enclave of Drange in Lysefjorden, the view was breathtaking. From their front terrace, through the lush green conifers, pines, and ferns, I could see the Bjornafjorden, about half a mile away, interspersed with several small islets covered in greenery. In the distance, I could see passenger ferries traversing the fjord, connecting these small, remote communities with downtown Bergen.

Bergen is a relatively large city with a population of about 270,000. It was larger than I’d expected but it has the charm and quaintness of a smaller town. The city is a joy to explore and getting around Bergen is easy. I joined the locals and traveled around by bus and tram (it costs about $2 per ride for retirees, and you can switch between the tram and bus network within 90 minutes of purchasing your ticket). The tram terminates in the very center of town, adjoining a fabulous green park known as Festplassen. In the middle of the park is an enchanting small Lake Lille Lunggardvann, home to lots of local fauna. The park is surrounded by traditional old Norwegian buildings housing the opera, museums and art galleries. And from there it’s a 10-minute walk through the central pedestrian mall, Torgallmenningen, and down to the waterfront area of Bryggen.

A tour of the city center is not complete without visiting this UNESCO’s World Heritage-listed part of Bergen. From a tourist’s perspective Bryggen is “ground zero” in Bergen and is often teeming with visitors. Bryggen (also called Tyskebryggen or the German Dock) is a series of 61 colorful buildings, built by German traders, that line the eastern side of the Vagen harbor. Today, the buildings house cafés, restaurants, and shops selling traditional and unique crafts like pottery and paintings by local artists.

This waterfront area was where the city began—the very first buildings were located here around the 12th century. Though there is nothing left of the original settlement after a series of fires over the centuries, in particular the Great Fire of 1702, the current buildings were built atop the original foundations. This part of Bergen offers a truly unique insight into Bergen’s maritime past and you can explore it with visits to the Maritime Museum, the Hanseatic Museum (the Hanseatics were merchants from Germany who sailed to Bergen in the 13th century to trade and they made Bergen one of the most important trading hubs of the time), and the Folklore Museum (get more information about all these museums on the Visit Bergen tourist website.

Another must-see is the city’s oldest building, St. Mary’s Church of Norway, right in the heart of the city. This gray, stone church is Romanesque and Gothic in style and was completed in and around 1180. Though it was ravaged by two fires, in 1198 and 1248, it has been in continuous use since early medieval times and underwent a complete renovation in the early 2010s.

For a birds-eye view of the city, I took the Floibanen Funicular up the steep Floyen Mountain (it’s about $10 for a round-trip ticket. See: floyen.no). The funicular has been in operation since 1918, and it takes you over 3,000 feet to the top of the mountain (you can stop at various points along the way) for panoramic views of the city and beyond. And if you’re feeling energetic, the mountain is full of activities—there are plenty of hiking trails, you can canoe and stand-up paddle board in the summer, and there’s a nature school and playground for the kids.

Back in central Bergen, my hosts had one more surprise sight for me to visit—the Fantoft Stave Church. It’s located in the woods about four miles outside the city center (take Line 1 of the Bergen Light Rail). A stave church is a medieval wooden Christian house of worship that is unique to Norway. These churches combine Christian motifs and Viking themes and today there are 28 remaining churches across the country. Most were originally built between 1150 and 1350.

Fantoft Stave Church is a timber, Gothic-style church with a somewhat foreboding appearance due to its dark grey color. The church that’s here today is a reconstruction. The original was built in 1170 at Fortun in Sogn, a village near the eastern end of Sognefjord, some 125 miles away. It was transported in pieces to Bergen in 1883 but was unforunately destroyed by arson in 1992. The church you see now was rebuilt over a six-year period using local materials (there was very little left of the original building after the fire) and was reconsecrated and reopened in 1997. As it’s still a place of worship, there are certain times when you can’t visit inside the church. For more info, see the Visit Bergen website.

Getting out of the city, my friend Svein took me to a seaside village where he spent many summers in his youth. The village of Austrheim is about 44 miles north of Bergen. It’s a pretty rural area scattered with small farming hamlets and quaint Norwegian timber houses and it is of course surrounded by water with islets and inlets aplenty. The topography here is much softer than around Bergen with rolling green hills more suitable for agriculture and livestock grazing.

A modern ferry took us across the waters on a 30-minute journey to Fedje Island with its small fishing village and old trading center, overlooked by the attractive Hellisoy Lighthouse. In town you’ll find more of those traditional, well-maintained, Norwegian timber cottages, in an array of colors—rust red, orange, and bright yellow walls with green roofs, all of which is in keeping with the soft green landscape of this small island of just 500 people.