From Ecuador Expats to Roving Retirees in Europe

In 2021, my wife Cynthia and I walked away from what many would call a perfect life when we said goodbye to our longtime hometown of Cuenca, Ecuador. We had discovered Cuenca through International Living and moved there in 2010, seeking a lower cost of living after the Great Recession swept away our careers and most of our investments.

For the next decade we enjoyed a blissful life beyond our wildest dreams. But slowly the exhilaration of our early expat days, once filled with energy and excitement, gave way to routine predictability.

Then COVID hit. After a miserable year of lockdowns, we agreed that it was time to do something new, and soon.

Into the Unknown (Again)

As a fellow International Living reader, you’ll know that the world is filled with attractive retirement destinations. Were there any we would like better than Cuenca? There was only one way to find out—so we abandoned our safe, comfortable life in Ecuador and once again plunged into the unknown.

We hatched a plan to start traveling full-time around the globe, staying in expat hotspots for extended periods to determine their pros, cons, and, most importantly, their affordability. Because there was one thing that hadn’t changed since our expat life began—this bold idea that our lives had to be funded by our Social Security budget of $2,500 a month.

To start, we set out for the only country that never closed its borders during the pandemic—Mexico. Over a two-and-a-half-month period, we visited some expat-favorite destinations: Mérida, Tulum, Playa del Carmen, Cancún, San Miguel de Allende, and Lake Chapala. We had an absolute blast, and we learned a lot along the way. Absorbing the lessons learned from this initial adventure, we decided to next take on an even more ambitious journey. Instead of visiting multiple locations in a single country, we’d spend 10 weeks roving around Europe.

Lisbon

Our first stop was the Portuguese capital of Lisbon. After arriving on a red-eye flight from the U.S, we clickety-clacked our suitcases up steep hills on the city’s tile sidewalks for what felt like an eternity until we finally found our apartment.

Once we were settled and began strolling through our neighborhood, we were quickly captivated by Lisbon’s beauty. Everywhere we looked was like a painting waiting to be framed. It’s hard to believe Portugal’s capital was almost completely destroyed by an earthquake in 1755.

We stayed for two weeks in Barrio Alto, a trendy area in the hills overlooking the historic center. We wouldn’t consider living there because of the many bars and restaurants open until the wee hours, but it served as a great base for exploring.

The mild climate in Lisbon is perfect for “Goldilocks people” like us. There’s so much to do both in the city and surrounding areas, like the picturesque towns of Sintra and Óbidos. A wide variety of cuisine is available, although since Lisbon’s heritage is all about the water, it’s no surprise that fish, particularly salted cod, is a specialty.

Lisbon’s inexpensive public transportation system, which ranges from sleek trains to vintage electric trolleys, makes getting around the city incredibly easy. Could we live in Lisbon? Definitely. The only caveat? Recent intel says prices are rising so that might stretch our budget too severely.

Insider tip: The city’s signature confection is a simple custard tart, Pastéis de Nata. Although the original recipe comes from nearby Belém, the version at Manteigaria (see: facebook.com/manteigaria.oficial) will make your taste buds faint.

Madrid

What a contrast it was, going from Lisbon, with a population of about a half million, to sprawling Madrid, a big, bold, bustling metropolis of almost 7 million people. But this huge city is safe, clean, well organized, and the economical public transportation system once again made getting around a breeze.

With all the fabulous museums, manicured parks, flamenco shows, and breathtaking architecture, no one could complain of boredom living here. Not to mention day trips to medieval cities and jaw-dropping Roman aqueducts. For us, the food in Madrid was the best we tasted anywhere.

Madrid’s climate is too seasonal for us, with lows below freezing in winter and over 100 F highs in the summer. Prices are quite reasonable (we paid $68 a night for our accommodation), but to be happy living in Madrid you have to embrace the hustle and bustle that comes with any major city. We did like the grand boulevards and glamorous buildings in the upscale Salamanca neighborhood, but overall the city is too frenetic for us.

Insider tip: The Prado Museum offers free entry from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m., Monday to Saturday, and the nearby Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum (our favorite) is free from noon to 4 p.m. on Mondays.

Bordeaux

Bordeaux was a last-minute addition to the itinerary when our original choice, Barcelona, proved to be a budget buster. Our next stop was Paris, so we looked at a map to see where else we could go.

Turns out we made a wise decision because Bordeaux is gorgeous. Locals told us visitors often say, “This place looks like a small Paris.” To which they smugly reply, “No, Paris is like a big Bordeaux.”

We stayed in a private home that had a plant-filled terrace overlooking the city skyline ($38 a night). Not the worst place to start the day with coffee and a croissant, or to watch the sunset with a glass of wine. Our host was so kind, she picked us up from the bus stop when we arrived and drove us to the train station when we left.

Bordeaux is synonymous with wine, and wonderful vintages are readily available in supermarkets for less than €5 ($5). You can book reasonably priced excursions to nearby vineyards through the downtown tourism office.

Even if you’re not a wine lover, Bordeaux has plenty to keep you busy. For starters, Rue Sainte-Catherine is the longest pedestrian shopping street in Europe. An abandoned Nazi submarine base has been transformed into a spectacular multimedia immersive art experience.

How fortunate that we accidentally discovered Bordeaux. An international airport and train station provide easy access to just about anywhere. The beach is less than an hour away and the food and wine are superb. We could happily live in this marvelous city.

Insider tip: Bar à Vin (see: baravin.bordeaux.com), a classy wine bar across the street from the tourist office, is run by the Bordeaux Wine Council. Generous pours of top-quality wine started at only €2 ($2).

Where to next?

We’ve been roving retirees for two years now. Are we getting tired of living out of suitcases? Sometimes, yes. But we get better at this nomadic lifestyle with every trip, and there are so many more exciting places to explore. We’re writing this in Cuenca, and from here we travel to Medellín, Colombia. We’ll then spend some time in Buenos Aires to escape North America’s winter. After that…who knows?